As for the 2015s, one can anticipate that these are going to be big, blackberry and blueberry-laced wines, opaque in color, with loads of glycerin. The Helena Dakota will probably inch out the Helena Montana in terms of concentration, length and intensity by a slight degree, but both are mid-90-point wines that should have early drinkability windows because of their sucrosity and supple, sweet tannins, yet be capable of lasting 25-30 or more years. This is an up-and-coming star.

The 2010 La Muse bursts from the glass with an exciting melange of dark red berries, freshly cut flowers, spices and licorice. Layers of dark fruit flow effortlessly to the long, wonderfully nuanced finish. The 2010 has a level of energy and pure vibrancy that isn't quite there in the 2009. Today the tannins are a bit firm, but that should only serve to provide backbone for the wine as it ages. This is a dazzling wine from Pierre Seillan and Verite. The 2010 La Muse is 84% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030.

A barrel sample of the 2009 La Muse, a blend of 86% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec, was from the Bennett Valley (31%), Chalk Hill (42%) and Alexander Mountain Estate (27%). Sweet cassis, crushed rock, spring flower, black currant and coffee notes as well as an undeniable minerality emerge from this big, full-bodied, powerful wine. Surprisingly deep and concentrated for a 2009, it may turn out to have the longevity of the 2005.

Exhibits a personality not unlike St-Emilion's Château Ausone. Aromas of incense, flowers, black fruits, crushed rocks, and steel emerge from this wine of extraordinary intensity, superb purity, full-bodied power, and backward tannin. As it sits in the glass, scents of smoke and earthy blueberries also come forth. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2021.

The 2010 La Joie is a cool, mineral-drenched wine oozing with class and elegance. Today the 2010 is all about potential, and there is no shortage of that here. Blackberries, cassis, graphite and spices are some of the many notes that wrap around the powerful, insistent finish. This is another showstopper from Verite. In 2010 La Joie is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030.

The 2008's are strong efforts. Given the fact that Vérité's wines often perform better out of bottle than they do from barrel, this may be another powerful, long-lived vintage. The 2008 La Joie (72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot, and 3% Malbec) reveals sweet fruitcake, crème de cassis, tobacco leaf, licorice, and incense characteristics as well as tremendous body. It is the biggest, richest, most substantial and promising of this trio. It reveals a Pauillac-like, cedary, black currant-scented nose that suggests a first-growth Bordeaux. It too, should age effortlessly for three decades or more.

The 2014 Chardonnay Stone Côte is actually a tiny parcel within the more famous and larger Durell Vineyard. Like most of these wines, indigenous yeast fermentations are encouraged, and the wine is 100% barrel-fermented and aged completely in French oak with the percentage of new oak generally ranging from the upper 30 percentile to 50% or so. This wine is a terrific example of Chardonnay, with a greenish hue to its light straw color and a stunning nose of tropical fruit, citrus oil and orange blossom. It is full-bodied, has great acidity and delicious up-front fruit. This will be a killer Chardonnay when released next year.

The 2012 Chardonnay Far Coast Vineyard comes from a site located on a mountain ridge north of Fort Ross. Like its siblings, it was fermented with indigenous yeasts, and bottled unfined and unfiltered after spending 15 months in one-third new oak. It’s alcohol is among the lowest at 14.1%. A blockbuster Chardonnay, it boasts intense aromas of mangoes, Mandarin oranges, pineapples and wet rocks along with noticeable minerality, full body, and stunning purity as well as symmetry. This is another great Chardonnay from proprietor Don Hartford and his winemaking team. Enjoy it over the next 5-7 years.

From a panoramic ridge top parcel west of the village of Occidental, the 2012 Chardonnay Seascape Vineyard reveals the lowest alcohol at 14%. It possesses great balance, a burgeoning complexity, good freshness and lots of honeyed tropical fruits intermixed with notions of wet gravel, spice and oak. With fabulous fruit, a full-bodied mouthfeel and a long finish, it should drink well for 6-7 years.

The 2015 Zinfandel Jolene’s Vineyard comes from another site for century-plus-aged, head-trained bush vines. Aged in 100% French oak, it was to be bottled unfined and unfiltered right after my visit. Inky bluish purple, this wine from a vineyard on Olivet Road has loads of pepper, roasted meats, Provençal herbs and loamy soil undertones interwoven with blackberry, black cherry liqueur and spice box. It is a pedal-to-the-metal style of wine, with superb richness, a full-bodied unctuosity, but good acidity keeping everything energized and vibrant. Drink it over the next decade.

The 2015 Zinfandel High Wire Vineyard also comes from century-old vines and is aged in 100% French oak for 14 months. This looks to be sensational, with an inky ruby/purple color, a big, peppery, spicy nose with layers of charcoal embers, blackcurrant and black cherry fruit, some licorice, spice box and earth. It is full-bodied and viscous, with layers of fruit (mostly black fruits like blackberry and cassis) and a deep, full-throttle, inky finish. Drink it over the next decade.

Bright, dark medium ruby. Medicinal black fruits, menthol, rose petal, brown spices, mocha, espresso and molten chocolate on the very ripe nose; some hints of _surmaturité. Boasts a texture like liquid velvet; not particularly sweet but delivers terrific depth of dark raspberry and chocolate flavor and an incredibly glossy texture. As seamless as this wine is, its powerful structure gives a kick to the finish, where broad, serious tannins saturate the entire palate. This very young, sophisticated wine is a beauty, but give it some time in a decanter if you plan to open a bottle anytime soon.

Light to medium crimson. Beautiful pure strawberry, chinotto aromas with camomile, hint aniseed notes. Generously concentrated with attractive strawberry, red cherry pastille, cola flavours, fine looseknit chalky, touch al dente textures, very good mid palate viscosity and fresh long crisp acidity. Finishes minerally, bittersweet and firmish with seductive red fruits. Allow a year for the elements to fold and integrate. From the highest block of 1946-planted bush vines. Drink 2026 – 2032

Intense ruby red in colour with purple highlights. Dark mature aromatic notes of black berry fruits, balsam, dark chocolate and exotic spice. Black cherry, blackcurrant, white smoke, liquorice, Kirsch, pomegranate, sweet tobacco and grilled herbs. Developed and beguiling on the palate, juicy and intense.Assertive in its structure. Wide and long on the close.

Another very well made, focused, but incredibly intense expression of Chardonnay that is simply brimming with smoky minerality, lemon and lime confit, crushed granite, green citrus, honeycomb, and vanilla pod spice. Beautiful balance, massive intensity of fruit concentration, and a truly delicious symmetry of acid and bright citrus fruit. Very impressive from a great vintage.

The 2021 Pinot Noir Clairière is inviting and kaleidoscopic on the nose: wild red and blue berries are accented by tones of orange peel, wildflowers, tea leaves, mushrooms and damp earth. The light-bodied palate is finely chalky and refreshing with latent flavor layers that gain detail as the wine opens. Despite its aromatic generosity, it's tightly wound on the palate and deserves 3-5+ years in bottle. 330 cases produced.

The 2021 Pinot Noir Slope comes from grapes planted in volcanic soils, and on the nose, tar and scorched earth aromas give way over time to pomegranate, rhubarb, dried herbs and amaro. The medium-bodied palate is expressive and inviting, flooding the mouth with dynamic flavor layers. It has suede-textured tannins, vibrant acidity and a very long finish streaked with flint and spice. It will reward five or more years in the cellar and should be long lived. 378 cases were made.

The 2021 Pinot Noir Conifer comes from grapes planted in both volcanic and marine sedimentary soils and offers aromas characteristic of its name: pine needles, mushrooms and botanical nuances complement a core of wild berry fruit. The medium-bodied palate is concentrated yet seamless. Its spicy fruit is framed by clay-textured tannins and vibrant acidity, and it has a long, layered finish. It opens dramatically with air and will benefit from time in bottle. 629 cases were made.

Pale purple in colour with bright pink undertones. Red rose petal, violet, fresh crushed Mediterranean herbs, red berry and vanilla, all act as on introduction. Red cherry, boysenberry, orange peel, cedar shavings and salty liquorice. Warm broad inviting entry, noticeable interaction between all the elements that define this wine: starting with the ripe fruit, fresh crisp acidity, ultra fine tannins and complex minerality. So translucent. Long juicy finish.

The 2021 Pinot Noir Garys' Vineyard is medium ruby-purple in color. After a little swirling, notes of black raspberries and mulberries spring from the glass, leading to hints of lavender, bay leaves, and wet pebbles. The full-bodied palate is packed with muscular black berry layers with a firm, grainy texture and bags of freshness, finishing long and mineral-laced.

The 2021 Chardonnay Perilune strikes an effortless balance between vibrance and ripeness. It opens with streaks of matchstick and saline that give way to white peaches and honeysuckle perfume on the nose. The palate is satiny and expansive, its fruit tinged by exotic tones of ginger and flowers, and it has a very long, flavorful finish. It's beautiful now but will be long lived in bottle.

Blackcurrant, dark raspberry, a little dried flower and herb perfume, mint, iodine, creamy chocolate and spiced cedar oak, also a dash of paprika. It’s dense and packed with graphite tannin, a lovely ferrous edge to it, tobacco, red and black fruit, deep and rich, but also fragrant to close with chocolate and pencilly tannin. Serious wine here, the highlight being the integration of (plentiful) oak and fruit, and a superb muscular tannin profile. Touch and go for 96 points really.

The 2021 Merlot Howell Mountain checks in as 93% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, and 2% Tannat, with the levage spanning 22 months in 70% new French oak. This beauty has bright red and blue fruits as well as complex, spicy nuances of dried flowers, savory herbs, and graphite. It's rich, medium to full-bodied, has ripe tannins, and a great finish. It's concentrated, has a smoking good mid-palate, and will benefit from 4-5 years of bottle age.

The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Bear Point Vineyard was aged for 20 months in 43% new oak. It's loaded with gregarious aromas of blueberry, boysenberry, lavender, fresh sage and dark chocolate. The palate is full-bodied with abundant, grainy tannins, seamless acidity and concentrated, floral flavors. It's still somewhat flinty and will benefit from 3 to 5+ years in the bottle. 1,091 cases were made.

The 2021 Hickinbotham Grenache has that lovely,
skinsy, ashy quality that comes from extended time on
skins in amphora (69% of the blend remained on skins
in amphora for 198 days). There are notes of
dehydrated orange rind, dried thyme,
lavender/potpourri, crushed shells and sand, fresh
tobacco leaf and layers of very fine, pluming tannins in
the mouth. The aftertaste is where the tannins assert
themselves; after a mouthful of chalky, fine, gritty
texture that prompts a little chew and squish, they
leave a trace of flavor that brings us back to the
aromatics. It's a gorgeous thing, this wine. It's shape is
circular, and it's graceful, like watching a lava lamp.
14.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. This was
made with 100% destemmed fruit, crushed and tipped
into cocciopesto stone egg-shaped amphoras. No
pressings were used in this wine. It matured
exclusively in this format for 13 months.