The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Sycamore Vineyard comes from a vineyard located at the end of Bella Oaks Lane in Rutherford. This has slightly less Cabernet Sauvignon than the Bosche Vineyard, at 84%, and the rest is Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, aged three months less in oak. Loads of clove, sweet blackberry and cassis, black olive tapenade and earthy forest floor notes are all present in this wine that shows dazzling richness, a heady full-bodied mouthfeel and stunning finish. The wine is slightly more evolved with the tannins and structure less present than in the Bosché.
USA, Northern California, Napa Valley: 2016 & 2017 – A Tale of Two Vintages Pale to medium ruby-purple in color, the 2016 Maggy Hawk Pinot Noir sings of lilacs and red roses with a core of warm cranberries, raspberry leaves, kirsch and black tea with hints of underbrush and tobacco. Medium-bodied, it fills the palate with elegant, intense red berry and earthy layers, supported by ripe, fine-grained tannins and compelling freshness, finishing very long.
This wine's vineyard sources include Rutherford, To-Kalon, Mt. Veeder, and Keyers Vineyard on Howell Mountain. The wine's opaque purple color is accompanied by a glorious nose of licorice cassis, lead pencil, and minerals. Sweet, with a terrific attack displaying stupendous ripeness, full-bodied richness, and a natural texture with a super-concentrated mid-palate and finish, this is a star of the vintage.
Napa Valley: 2007 Retrospective - Napa's Turning-Point Vintage Composed of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Merlot, the 2007 Proprietary Red Wine still possesses a youthful deep garnet-purple color and gives up a truly gorgeous nose of crème de cassis, blackberry pie and blueberry compote with notions of Chinese five spice, licorice, mocha and dusty soil plus wafts of cardamom and smoked meats. Full-bodied, rich and totally seductive in mouth, it has a firm frame of super ripe, grainy tannins with oodles of freshness and epic persistence.
Pale to medium ruby-purple colored, the 2015 Pinot Noir Hapgood has notes of black cherries and black raspberries with hints of black pepper, dried herbs and damp earth. Medium to full-bodied, rich, densely and superbly structured with grainy tannins and a racy acid line, it has an epically long, complex finish. Yum.
A real blockbuster, and one meant for 25-30 years of cellaring, is the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Rosso Vineyard, made from 50-year-old vines. Treated like the Reserve Speciale, aged 30 months in oak prior to being bottled unfined and unfiltered, this shows off this hallowed terroir that is now owned by the Gallo family. A very full-bodied wine with notes of cedar and black cherry liqueur intermixed with creme de cassis, graphite, and loamy soil notes, the wine is deep, chewy, full-bodied, and intense. The tannins are high, but the fruit and concentration are more than adequate to match them. Give it 3-4 years of bottle age, and drink it over the following 25-30+ years. This should be a brilliant wine down the road.
The 2015 Valadorna (65% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot) is a dark and thickly endowed red wine that boasts a rich and lasting grip on the palate. The bouquet offers depth and complexity with dark fruit, leather, cured tobacco and spice. There are also softer notes of chocolate and ground espresso beans. The wine's seamless integration of flavors leads to increased momentum and intensity as the wine continues to open in the glass.
The 2012s are the most showy and forward of the three vintages, which is not surprising, since the vintage is flamboyant and they are already three years of age. The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Helena Montana (1,317 cases) is a beauty. Loads of chocolate, crème de cassis, black cherry and crushed rock are all present in this broad, savory, full-bodied, multi-dimensional wine. This is a gorgeous wine with terrific intensity and, while approachable now, should continue to evolve for at least 20-25 years.
The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Helena Montana Vineyard is cut from the same cloth. Its opaque purple color and sweet creme de cassis fruit intermixed with crushed rock and forest floor notes lead to a broad, rich, full-bodied mouthfeel with excruciatingly high tannins and intense power and richness. It should be forgotten for at least a decade.
These high elevation Cabernet Sauvignons, culled out from a larger vineyard, are remarkable offerings with aging potential of 25+ years. Readers looking for slightly more structure and Mouton Rothchild-like nose of creme de cassis, licorice, black currants, cedar, and a hint of bay leaf should check out the Cabernet Sauvignon Helena Dakota. The tannic, impressively endowed, full-bodied Helena Dakota is clearly meant for true connoisseurs with cold cellars as well as the patience to wait 5-6 years for it to evolve. It is a 25- to 30-year wine...at a minimum.
The 2002 Helena Dakota is slightly softer and perhaps not as profoundly deep as its sibling. Nevertheless, it explodes off the back of the palate with abundant notes of crushed rocks, blue and black fruits and a boatload of massive tannin. This dense, full-bodied effort should be forgotten for another 5-6 years and drunk over the following two decades.
The 2001 La Joie (71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc) remains a backward, youthful wine revealing an inky/purple color as well as notes of graphite, licorice, creme de cassis, truffles and new saddle leather. It has fabulous fruit on the attack and mid-palate, a massive, concentrated, tannic mouthfeel and a long finish. Even younger than La Muse, it needs another decade of cellaring and should age for 40-50 years thereafter. Pierre Seillan told me that 44% of the grapes came from Alexander Valley, 35% from Knight's Valley and the rest from Chalk Hill. These are the visionary efforts of the recently deceased Jess Jackson, one of the great men in California's history of high quality winemaking. Verite was started in 1998, when Jess Jackson brought over Bordelais winemaker Pierre Seillan, and essentially gave him carte blanche authority to pick the best fruit he could to fashion these three cuvees. La Muse is his version of a Pomerol, made from Jess Jackson's high-elevation vineyards in Alexander Valley, Knights Valley and Chalk Hill, the La Joie is his Medoc look-alike from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and of course, Le Desir is a Sonoma clone of a St.-Emilion, made generally from high quantities of both Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with just a little Cabernet Sauvignon in them. These wines are the epitome of natural wine, aged 24-32 months in new French oak, with wood staves selected by Jackson and his team in France, and the wines then bottled unfined and unfiltered. There's no acidification, no additional concentration by reverse osmosis, and obviously no water added. The production of each cuvee runs between 1,500 and 2,000 cases. According to Pierre Seillan, the aim was to produce wines capable of lasting 25, or in some cases, even 40+ years, and based on the three vertical tastings I did of all the cuvees made to date, the great vintages will certainly attain that potential longevity.
A blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec, the inky/purple-colored 2006 La Joie (1,300 cases) reveals aromas of graphite, creme de cassis, unsmoked cigar tobacco, and incense. It possesses a rich, full-bodied personality with mouth-filling levels of tannin, extract, and fruit. Forget this 2006 for 5-7 years as it is a long-term monster in the making. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2045. With Bordeaux winemaker Pierre Seillan in charge, owner Jess Jackson has clearly positioned Verite as one of the two or three flagship wines in his impressive empire. These cuvees represent California versions of Bordeaux appellations, with the Merlot-dominated La Muse very Pomerol-like, the Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated La Joie a hypothetical California version of a Medoc, and the St.-Emilion look-alike, the Merlot and Cabernet Franc blend, Le Desir. These wines are fashioned from the finest Sonoma vineyard sites owned by Jackson, and are meant for long-term aging. In 2007, the Bordeaux varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot) grown in California’s North Coast exhibit sweet tannins as well as superb fragrance and purity. Yet, Verite’s wines are among the more structured, dense, and powerfully backward of the vintage.
It offers up smoky, sweet scents of lead pencil shavings, cedar, spice box, volcanic earth, black currants, and smoke. With excellent fruit, full-bodied power, a layered texture, and an exceptionally long finish.
A Medoc-styled offering, the 2003 La Joie is composed of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot that achieved 14% alcohol. It represents a Sonoma Country version of the famous Pauillac, Lynch Bages. Cedar, black currant, licorice, black olive, coffee and white chocolate characteristics are found in this tannic, structured, masculine effort that still needs 4-5 years in the cellar. It should drink well for at least 20 years. These Verite wines are not for those who lack patience.
USA, California, Northern California: Napa & Some Sonoma New Releases Composed of 100% Cabernet aged 20 months in 60% new French oak, the deep garnet-purple colored 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Rockfall Vineyard opens a little youthfully reticent, soon giving way to notions of black and red currants, wild blueberries and wild thyme with touches of cigar box, tilled soil, black truffes and camphor. Medium to full-bodied, it is very taut, muscular and firmly structured in the mouth with a rock-solid grainy texture and tons of freshness supporting the densely packed black fruit, finishing long and earthy.
The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Rockfall Vineyard comes from a high-elevation site of 2,000 to 2,200 feet. It is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged 21 months in 66% new French oak. This vineyard is a south-facing micro-terroir with lots of rocks, and the wine smells of mountain garrigue intermixed with black cherry, blackberry and cassis. The wine is dense, full-bodied, rich and rugged, but not rustic. It is a full-bodied, massive, rather backward and primordial wine for those with the patience to cellar it. Forget it for 5-8 years, and drink it over the following 40+ years.
A 50-year wine named after Jess Jackson’s son Christopher, the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Christopher’s Vineyard comes from a more north-facing site on red volcanic soils with high concentrations of slate and iron, planted in 1986. The resulting wine displays loads of blueberry and blackberry fruit, wet, gravelly rocks, some graphite, a full-bodied, mouthfeel, huge, massive fruit and extract, and a long, juicy but substantial finish of close to a minute, with plenty of tannin. Forget this wine for 5-7 years and drink it over the following 50+ years.
Santa Cruz Mountains and the Santa Lucia Highlands Mostly destemmed (15% whole clusters), the 2016 Pinot Noir Zena Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir comes from the Eola-Amity vineyard, which is one of the top sites in the Willamette Valley. It's a vibrant, energetic effort that has classic black raspberry fruits, lots of spice, scorched earth, and crushed flower aromatics, medium body, and high yet integrated acidity. It shines for its balance and purity, and will keep for 10-15 years.
USA, Oregon: 2016 Vintage – Part Two The 2015 Pinot Noir Elevee Vineyard is pale to medium ruby in color with a gorgeous floral perfume of violets and lilacs over a core of warm blackberries and black cherries plus notes of licorice, pipe tobacco, forest floor and stewed Bergamot tea leaves. Light to medium-bodied and wonderfully silky, it fills the mouth with layers of fruit, earth and spice framed by plush, grainy tannins and juicy acidity to carry the epically long, layered finish. Wow!
USA, Northern California, Napa Valley: 2016 & 2017 – A Tale of Two Vintages One-hundred percent Cabernet Franc, the 2016 Cabernet Franc Mt. Veeder is medium to deep garnet-purple with pretty scents of kirsch, redcurrants and mulberries with touches of red roses, tilled soil, cinnamon stick and aniseed. Full-bodied, firmly structured with ripe, fine-grained tannins and sporting bags of freshness, the palate is impressively intense and perfumed with a long, spicy finish.
The top score, though, has to go to the 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, which is 90.5% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest small quantities of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec. This wine has an opaque purple color, a big, sweet kiss of blueberry and blackberry liqueur, some graphite, a juicy, full-bodied, savory mouthfeel, and excellent purity and underlying balance. This seamlessly rich mountain Cabernet Sauvignon should age effortlessly for two decades or more.
Napa Valley’s Extraordinary 2016 Cabernets - Part 1 The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain) is supple, silky and remarkably pure, with striking nuance to match its soft contours and plush fruit. Resonant and enveloping, with terrific depth, the 2016 is striking today. The Spring Mountain is the most open and inviting of the Lokoya Cabernets, but ideally readers should give it a few years in the cellar, which will allow the full range of aromatics to develop.
A classic mountain-styled effort is the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain. Blueberries, acacia flowers, and lavender make appearances in this offering as well as a strong minerality, a subtle hint of oak, endearing elegance, medium to full body, a textured, layered mouthfeel, and superb purity, length, and overall equilibrium. This 2007 can be drunk now or cellared for 25 years.
The inky/ruby/purple-colored 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder exhibits a sumptuous nose of charcoal, burning embers, incense, black currant liqueur, blueberries, and hints of espresso roast and white chocolate. A sensationally concentrated, dense, full-bodied effort with high levels of sweet tannin, decent acidity, and a stunningly layered mouthfeel, this is a profound Cabernet Sauvignon to drink between 2012-2030+.