Medium lemon. Yellow plum, honeydew melon and honeysuckle. Very spice- and yellow-plum-heavy on the palate, with notes of crème brûlée and orange peel. Refreshing acidity but the oak is quite heavy and sticks out.

Pale ruby with a purple hue. Toast, vanilla bean and blackberry/blueberry fruit. Large, with plenty of oak spice. Bright, juicy acidity. The Saralee's is more my speed – delicate and floral – but if you like more richness, this is well built. Clean acid line through the finish on all the 2021s.

An evolving red, supple and boasting cherry, raspberry, vanilla, coffee and spice flavors. Fresh and harmonious, fluid on the palate, with fine tannins uplifting the long finish. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Best from 2025 through 2038. 1,393 cases made, 983 cases imported.

The herbal side of Cabernet Franc is on display in this red -- in the best sense. Delivers grassy, bell pepper and rosemary notes that mingle with black currant, blackberry and licorice flavors. Balanced and long, with the fruit extending on the finish. Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2030. 1,744 cases made, 1,402 cases imported.

Pure, this red features black currant, blackberry, violet, iron and wild herb flavors. Reveals muscular tannins that integrate with some aeration. Balanced and long. Decant now. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2030. —B.S.

Pale ruby in colour. Blackberry and blueberry fruit with a loamy, sappy quality to the nose. Fine-grained but elevated tannin compared with the Seascape and Jennifer's, and a bit brawnier. Savoury, with a juniper bite. Ripeness and juiciness to the cherry fruit.(SCJ)

Pale lemon colour. Lemon zest, white peach and blossom with a distinct flintiness and a Play-Doh salinity. Mouth-watering acidity but gentle and creamy mid palate. Peach pithiness and creamy lees quality to the finish. Very elegant, no rough edges, fine and cooling despite the relatively high alcohol. Graham cracker toastiness. Lighter than any of the other three Chardonnays I was shown and with more drive.

Pale lemon colour. Dense yellow peach, salinity, sweet marjoram and vanilla blossom – lots of concentration. Fresh acidity and textural roundness to the palate. Very long. Well-integrated, 30% new oak lends a bit of fatness to the texture and a touch of spice to the finish.

Pale ruby in colour. Ripe, floral nose with a savoury stemminess. Really bright acidity, tart red and black cherry and wet dark earth. Fine-grained tannin. Very crunchy – pomegranate, cranberry and tart red plum with lots of earth. An elegant, smoked-peat earthiness.

Pale lemon colour. Toasty, zesty, vanilla blossom, pear compote, crystallised ginger and citrus blossom. Fresh acidity, round and creamy but with plenty of acid to pull out a lengthy stone-fruit and spice-kissed finish. Still pretty tightly wound but with more concentration than the Stone Côte.

Pale lemon colour. Ripe peach, baked pear and yellow apple. A brawnier oak profile than the Stone Côte Chardonnay. Candied ginger. A touch phenolic and very ripe peach on the palate with plenty of acid. Alcohol feels a touch warm.

Medium purple. Denser than the Dina's. Deep black cherry and black plum with very ripe raspberry. Ripeness, weight and viscosity to the palate. Baked black plum on the finish.

Medium purple. Incredibly floral and grapey without as much spice as I'd usually expect from a Zin, a coolness despite the 15.3% alcohol. Raspberry coulis, black cherry and fennel-seed sweetness. Incredible concentration and well-balanced high acidity that lengthens the finish. Fine-linen tannin. There is a lightness to this that the Zin blend doesn't have. Gorgeous.

Pale ruby in colour. Much plumper fruit profile than Seascape, Jennifer's or the Russian River blend. Toasty cinnamon, black-cherry and chocolate aromas. Powerful palate with light earthiness, cocoa dust and fine-grained tannin.

Pale ruby in colour. Much darker fruit than the Seascape – black cherry, savoury potting soil and a crushed-gravel note. A juiciness that the Seascape didn't have and a broadness, but still with that peat, moss, smoky-savoury quality. Brooding and lovely with high, mouth-watering acidity.

The Highwire Zinfandel is a much more serious bottling than the Russian River Valley Zinfandel. It retains a deep reddish purple color with heavenly aromas of holiday baking spices, cinnamon and clove. The mid-palate is lush with undertones of creamy blueberries, Oolong tea and savory earthy elements. There is a hint of sandalwood and a spice infused background. It all coalesces into a lengthy finish that ends on a youthful note suggesting it will stand the test of time in the cellar.

Vibrant and snappy, with fresh cherry and pomegranate flavors that take on accents of pepper, meat and grilled anise as this builds richness and focus toward fine-grained tannins. Drink now through 2032. 585 cases made.

Shows the flashy ripeness of the vintage, with a mix of plum, boysenberry and blackberry compote flavors pumping through, inlaid with roasted mesquite and sweet tobacco accents. Packs a nice finishing kick of warm earth that keeps this just grounded enough. Drink now through 2035. 2,839 cases made.

A ripe style, with a broad beam of raspberry and blackberry puree flavors flanked by roasted apple wood. Reveals a nice graphite edge that helps drive the finish. Solidly built and well-defined in the end. Drink now through 2030. 253 cases made.

Vibrant and handsomely built, with huckleberry, roasted anise and smoked pepper flavors that build tension and richness toward medium-grained tannins. Drink now through 2029. 150 cases made.

Fresh and zesty, this Syrah offers sleek huckleberry and blueberry flavors laced with brown baking spices and fresh pepper, finishing with snappy tannins. Drink now through 2029. 170 cases made.

A fresh, polished style, with a relatively open-knit core of boysenberry and black cherry compote backed by friendly singed vanilla and licorice notes. A crowd-pleaser. Drink now through 2031. 25,000 cases made.

Tre Bicchieri 2023: the best wines of Tuscany

Established in 1971 by Alan Hickinbotham on the hill above Clarendon, this vineyard developed into a legend under the halo of the family name (Hickinbotham's father had established the oenology course at Rose-worthy; his brother Ian was the first winemaker at Wynn's Coonawarra). The Jackson family, already invested in Yangarra Estate, purchased the property in 2012 and put the Yangarra team in charge - - Peter Fraser and Chris Carpenter, working with Michael Lane on viticulture. Shiraz accounts for 80 acres of the site, providing this "pure and concentrated, perfumed syrah," as panelist David Hawkins described it. There's freshness to the fruit, along with a savory undertone of fruity mushrooms. The brisk tannins are elegant and delicate in the context of McLaren Vale. Oak aging adds to the wine's espresso-roast depth, its firm, gentle touch like a finger on the pulse of the fruit. -J.G.