Far more interesting is the 2011 Pinot Noir Russian River, which displays dense pomegranate and black cherry fruit intermixed with a hint of cola. Medium-bodied with good ripeness and sweet tannin, this lovely, round, seductive Pinot should drink well for several years.

Slightly more concentrated, with hints of pineapple, hazelnut and orange blossom, the 2013 Chardonnay Russian River is a slightly bigger cuvée, and the wine also elegant, but offering more flavor, concentration and intensity. Both of these were aged nine months in about 50%-60% new French oak and another year in older barrels prior to being bottled.

Aged 14 months on the lees with frequent stirring in French oak barrels, 26% new. · Moderate golden yellow color and clear in the glass. The nose opens with some reductive aromas of sulfur and flint, improving over time in the glass although no fruit shows up. Better on the palate, with flavors of lemon, peach, caramel and crème brûlée. Soft and slightly viscous, with a moderately long and chalky-textured finish.

Bright yellow-gold. Pineapple, nectarine and orange zest on the nose, with notes of honey and sweet butter adding depth. Fleshy, palate-coating tropical and pit fruit flavors are firmed by juicy acidity, with a smoky nuance emerging with aeration. Shows a slightly hard edge on the finish, the orange and smoke notes repeating.

From a cool site in Anderson Valley, the 2011 Chardonnay Edmeades Estate displays a noticeable wet gravel-like minerality along with delicate honeyed citrus, white peach and white currant notes. Medium-bodied and fresh, its 14-month sojourn in French wood is barely noticeable in its elegant, understated personality. Consume it over the next several years.

The 2017 WillaKenzie Estate Rosé delivers serious pureness on the nose, which I completely dug, though the palate seems a bit disjointed at this stage and may need a few months in bottle to merge. It has a nose of bright crushed strawberry, cantaloupe, crushed limestone and coriander. It’s on the fuller side of the rose spectrum, and quite lush. The acid is kicking. The fruit zeros in on strawberry, cranberry and salmon berry, while there are touches of nutmeg and parsley that seem out of place. 88 points, value C.

Light yellow. Ripe orchard and pit fruit aromas and flavors, along with a subtle herbal nuance. Smooth, warm and seamless in texture; a candied ginger note adds spicy bite. Closes with good length, repeating florality and a hint of bitter peach pit.

This pale straw colored Pinot Gris from Oregon opens with a fragrant honeysuckle and lemon verbena bouquet with a hint of pineapple. On the palate, this wine is light to medium bodied, pleasantly acidic and fresh. The flavor profile is a mineral infused tart green apple with hints of grapefruit and nectarine. The finish is dry and its acidity and flavors are nicely prolonged. This Pinot Gris would pair well swordfish skewers. 88 points. Very good.

Tasting 2008 Oregon Pinot Noirs at Age 10 Firm in texture, with gritty tannins around a juicy core of blueberry, plum and savory flavors. 88 points.

Tenuta di Arceno is spread across 1000-hectares of classic rolling hillside containing vineyards, forests and medieval stone castles. The vineyards have been replanted and expanded into a series of micro-crus relating to the property’s 12 distinct meso-climates over the last 20 years vastly improving the fruit that gets to the winery. It’s cooler year and the aromatics are front and center along with the red fruit and garrigue notes. The texture is supple with more liquorice and savoury, dried herb nuances. Wild boar pappardelle or pecorino cheese are fine matches. The mix is 85/15 sangiovese/merlot.

The Tenuta di Arceno 2012 Chianti Classico opens to a pretty garnet hue and medium color intensity. The wine is streamlined and tight with ample fruit definition that comes across as dried cherry and wild berry. I enjoyed the wine's crisp definition and the steady focus it shows in the mouth.

Shows the rustic side of Chianti Classico, with aromas of forest and underbrush, tobacco and leather, supported by beefy tannins. Needs a hearty dish with ragù.

This smooth wine has a peppery sangiovese rasp rounded by light, honeyed sweetness. It’s dark and juicy, with a lasting spice for roast lamb.

Richly extracted and polished to a sleek gloss, this is a generously textured wine. The fruit is ripened to raisin and prune, suggesting early enjoyment, suited to steak.

Kendall-Jackson's super Tuscan is Cab-based and very ripe. It's black as coal, with leather, earth and dark-fruit aromas. It's more soft than steely, with blackberry and plum flavors softened by molasses and licorice. A real beast of a wine that includes 15% Merlot and Syrah.

Smooth, black, herbal cabernet sauvignon dominates this blend with small amounts of merlot (10 percent) and syrah (5 percent). It's rich and simple, the flavors of new oak and blackened fruit lasting in the end. For chopped sirloin with a char off the grill.

Violet, blackberry and vanilla aromas follow through to a full-bodied palate, with soft tannins and a fresh finish. Surprisingly lean. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese. Best after 2007. 690 cases made. -JS

Despite being entirely barrel fermented, this doesn't come across as anything like the winery's Chardonnays. There's some smoke, but also pungent gooseberries along with melon and grapefruit. Only 10-15% of the oak is new, so it's not overdone.

Full ruby-red. Sappy aromas of currant, plum, tar, tobacco, licorice and herbs. Sweet and nicely delineated, with moderate flesh but very good flavor intensity. Slightly dry finish hints at fresh herbs. A 50/50 blend of mountain and valley fruit.

Musky, rather wild aromas of oatmeal, smoke, iodine, and Islay scotch. Firm-eged flavors of apricot, smoke, earth and spicy oak. Some intriguing mineral notes throughout. Slightly hard on the finish, but has backbone.

It reveals tangy acidity ( a characteristic of the vintage) as well as medium to full body, and lemon custard/citrus characteristics with subtle wood in the background. An excellent tropical fruit-filled, bold, California-styled Chardonnay, it will drink well for 2-3 years.

Like many 2000 North Coast Cabernets, this shows a touch of green to its cassis base, blending herbs and tobacco into a solidly structured wine. A bit tight now, but not a long-term proposition either, try 2004-2008.

Quiet yet substantial, this is full of dark cassis flavor, clean and fresh. It's plush in the mouth and ends softly padded, with a pleasing perfume of blue and purple fruit, ready for prime rib.