The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Helena Dakota is a slightly softer, but still structured, meaty effort with impressive levels of black cherries, black currants and a steely, crushed rock-like minerality. Like its sibling, it is full-bodied, tannic and deep, but with less of the burning ember/scorched earth character. It offers pure floral, concentrated fruit and beautiful purity, symmetry and balance. Nevertheless, it, too, will benefit from 3-4 years of cellaring and should drink well over the following three decades.

The dense purple-colored, perfumed 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain offers compelling aromas of violets (or is it acacia flowers?). Full-bodied with great elegance and precision as well as dense, concentrated, powerful fruit, this intense Cabernet will age gracefully for two decades or more. One of the stars in Jess Jackson's Artisans and Estates portfolio, Lokoya focuses on high elevation mountain vineyards in four separate Napa appellations. Winemaker Chris Carpenter has been the force behind these wines for many years.

The 2009 Chardonnay Howell Mountain is all from the Keyes Vineyard. It reveals a Meursault-like hazelnut character intermixed with notions of crushed rocks, white peaches and honeysuckle. This full-bodied, layered, impressive Chardonnay had its malolactic fermentation blocked, which has preserved the fruit's ripeness and vivacity. It should drink well for 3-5 years. Freemark Abbey continues to be a work in progress as proprietor Jess Jackson moves aggressively to get this estate back to its glory days of the late sixties and early to mid-seventies.

The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Helena Montana (100% Cabernet Sauvignon) exhibits an unmistakable minerality with a volcanic rock/burning ember/scorched earth component to its beautifully pure black currant fruit. Full-bodied, powerful and muscular with a boatload of tannin as well as fabulous concentration, this may turn out to be one of the longest lived wines ever made from Knights Valley. Give it 3-4 more years of bottle age and drink it over the following 25 years.

The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain, which comes largely from the Reverie Vineyard, is the softest of this quartet and thus will show best over the near term. It exhibits a dark ruby/purple color along with notes of berry fruit, camphor, roasted herbs and crushed rocks, an elegant, medium to full-bodied style, silky tannins and an endearing opulence as well as freshness. It should drink well for 10-15 years. One of the stars in Jess Jackson's Artisans and Estates portfolio, Lokoya focuses on high elevation mountain vineyards in four separate Napa appellations. Winemaker Chris Carpenter has been the force behind these wines for many years.

Particularly impressive is the sexy, seductive 2008 Cabernet Franc. Its dark garnet/plum color is followed by sweet aromas of bay leaf, raspberries and blueberries, a medium-bodied, fleshy mouthfeel and striking minerality as well as balance. This soft, lush 2008 should drink nicely for 10-15 years. Since being acquired by Jess Jackson, La Jota Vineyard Co. has been a work in progress. The very strong 2007s have been followed by very good 2008s, so, hopefully, this well-known estate, which made some phenomenal wines in the mid-nineties, is back on track.

My favorite red wine is the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Sycamore Vineyard which is planted in clay and loam soils in Rutherford. It exhibits loamy, earthy soil notes intermixed with toasty oak, black currant, black cherry, Christmas fruitcake and spice box. Medium-bodied with plenty of tannin, it will benefit from 3-4 years of cellaring and should last for 15+ years. Freemark Abbey continues to be a work in progress as proprietor Jess Jackson moves aggressively to get this estate back to its glory days of the late sixties and early to mid-seventies.

A blend of different estate vineyards owned by Jess Jackson, the 2009 Chardonnay Napa is a non-malolactic effort that exhibits lots of citrus blossom, tangerine and lemon oil notes offered in a medium-bodied, steely, crisp style. The oak component is pushed way to the background in this outstanding, Chablis-like, vibrant, zesty Chardonnay. Enjoy it over the next 2-4 years. I would encourage Freemark Abbey to make more wines in this style. Freemark Abbey continues to be a work in progress as proprietor Jess Jackson moves aggressively to get this estate back to its glory days of the late sixties and early to mid-seventies.

The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Heritage Release reveals deeper fruit, a richer, fuller-bodied style and good density as well as minerality. While it will not make anyone forget the terrific Anniversary Reserve selections made in the early and mid-nineties (the equivalent of the Heritage Release cuvees), it is beginning to return to its previous glory. Since being acquired by Jess Jackson, La Jota Vineyard Co. has been a work in progress. The very strong 2007s have been followed by very good 2008s, so, hopefully, this well-known estate, which made some phenomenal wines in the mid-nineties, is back on track.

From Rutherford, the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Bosche Vineyard was somewhat closed the day I tasted it. Its dense ruby/plum color is followed by notions of loamy soil, kirsch, herbs and spice box. The wine has some light tannin to shed and lacks the profound richness, intense and depth of the top 2007 Cabernet Sauvignons, but it should evolve for 12-15 years. Freemark Abbey continues to be a work in progress as proprietor Jess Jackson moves aggressively to get this estate back to its glory days of the late sixties and early to mid-seventies.

The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of fruit (79% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest mostly Merlot and tiny dollops of Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc) from estate vineyards. Classic aromas of cedarwood, roasted herbs, dark cherries and white chocolate emerge from spicy, medium-bodied Cabernet. It should provide plenty of pleasure over the next decade. Freemark Abbey continues to be a work in progress as proprietor Jess Jackson moves aggressively to get this estate back to its glory days of the late sixties and early to mid-seventies.

Softer than the 2007, the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain is an elegant offering displaying notes of minerals, black currants, unsmoked cigar tobacco and herbs. This medium to full-bodied Cabernet is ideal for drinking over the next decade. Since being acquired by Jess Jackson, La Jota Vineyard Co. has been a work in progress. The very strong 2007s have been followed by very good 2008s, so, hopefully, this well-known estate, which made some phenomenal wines in the mid-nineties, is back on track.

Aromas of white flowers and vanilla, soft and rich, with vanilla and citrus flavors.

Herbal and savory, with ripe apricot flavors.

Big, rich, crisp, and full-bodied, with flavors of white grapefruit.

Black cherry and black pepper aromas and flavors, soft tannins.

There are at least six grape varieties from four counties that go into this eclectic blend, although about half of the wine is merlot. With that motley collection, it is defined by location, terroir or even grape variety. But it does have some nice flavors: cherry, currants, chocolate and mocha.