This grows on an old riverbed of sand and gravel at the base of Mount St. Helena, where sauvignon ripens to bosky green apple scents and cool, tropical notes of papaya. It's a substantive white enriched by a bit of sauvignon musqué as well as lees aging, its toastiness restrained by tight, fresh fruit.

This grows on an old riverbed of sand and gravel at the base of Mount St. Helena, where sauvignon ripens to bosky green apple scents and cool, tropical notes of papaya. It's a substantive white enriched by a bit of sauvignon musque as well as lees aging, its toastiness restrained by tight, fresh fruit. For roast sturgeon or other meaty fish.

Medium ruby color; deep floral, cherry and strawberry aromas with spice notes; rich, ripe red cherry flavors with floral and spicy notes; silky texture; good structure and balance; long finish. Ripe fruit and spicy notes make this a nice Pinot for lighter grilled fare.

Medium-deep ruby color; deep, spicy cherry aromas with mineral, earthy notes; ripe, forward cherry and plum flavors with lots of earthy notes; good structure and balance; long finish. Deep, full Pinot with the structure for some age.

You might expect rich texture and plush fruit from a high-end Kendall-Jackson wine, but you may be surprised by the distinctive character of the fruit here. It's in the savory mode of persimmon - firm, spicy and earthy rather than sweet. An elegant wine for braised partridge or other dark-meated game birds.

One of the Year's Best Pinot Noir's - A rich pinot noir with warm black cherry flavor, this is dark, chewy and broad. The tannins have a touch of smoky bitterness, needing a steak to bring them into line.

One of the Year's Best Pinot Noir's - Big and brash up front, this pinot noir has some jazz in its acidity, a firm, lively finish that breathes with black cherry and smoke. The tannins are fine, holding the warmth of the wine in check. Ready to serve with Peking duck.

High in concentrated black currant character and complemented by notes of roasted vanilla bean oak, this direct and fairly generous wine turns out to be a bit muscle-bound on the palate despite its deep, dense, concentrated flavors.

Medium ruby color; forward plum and herbal aromas; ripe, forward plum and cherry flavors with some herbal/oak notes; good structure and balance; long finish. Forward, fruity Pinot that will work well with a lot of food choices.

Here is a big wine that wears its ripeness surprisingly well, for while checking in at just over 15% alcohol, it is comparatively well-balanced and hides its heat behind lots of deep and well-defined blackcurrant fruit. It is at once both very full-bodied and slightly supple in feel, and the finishing toughness that comes from its young Cabernet tannins will ease and be made moot by four or five years of age.

Made in the slightly sweet style that made this bottling famous, this Chardonnay's pineapple, orange and peach flavors are balanced by crisp, coastal acidity. It's a fine sipper at an affordable price.

Hartford Court Winery, a.k.a. Hartford Court,...produces a dozen or more Pinot Noirs, but my favorite usually is its Far Coast Vineyard, near Annapolis in the north. This baby needs time; it will be long-lived, and is destined to be one of Hartford Court's greatest wines.

Here's a nicely fragrant pinot that hits all the high notes: red, raspberry fruit, some floral aspects and good balance.

The Arroyo Seco 2007 is a deeper, earthier wine, rather different in style and not as widely available.

Soft and a bit sweet, with pronounced attractive floral aromas, this popular pinot from Santa Barbara County has long been a thoroughbred in the Jackson Family stable of wines.

The much-harder-to-find Anderson Valley bottling was my favorite of the tasting.

This good-quality pinot noir reflects the cool climate of Sonoma County's coastal appellations, with the added advantage of being widely available.

Made in a simple, crowd-pleasing style, this tastes like pinot noir - which, despite the duh factor, is saying something for a wine under $20. ...I suspect it will find fans in many consumers who want a wine to enjoy without having to think too much about it.

Santa Barbara County, where long east-west valleys funnel cooling Pacific influences, is home to two great pinot noir regions. The 2009 Byron offers a good preview of the structure, concentration, and ripe flavors typical of the area.

Santa Barbara County, where long east-west valleys funnel cooling Pacific influences, is home to two great pinot noir regions. At the northern end of the county, the Santa Maria Valley sources a growing number of wineries. My tastings revealed an impressive portfolio from one of the pioneers of the area.

Santa Barbara County, where long east-west valleys funnel cooling Pacific influences, is home to two great pinot noir regions. At the northern end of the county, the Santa Maria Valley sources a growing number of wineries. My tastings revealed an impressive portfolio from one of the pioneers of the area.

Santa Barbara County, where long east-west valleys funnel cooling Pacific influences, is home to two great pinot noir regions. At the northern end of the county, the Santa Maria Valley sources a growing number of wineries. My tastings revealed an impressive portfolio from one of the pioneers of the area.

Santa Barbara County, where long east-west valleys funnel cooling Pacific influences, is home to two great pinot noir regions. At the northern end of the county, the Santa Maria Valley sources a growing number of wineries. My tastings revealed an impressive portfolio from one of the pioneers of the area.