A dry year with low yields, with tiny berries. This is dense and structured with vivid blackcurrant fruit and some fine spicy detail. The oak integrates well. Good tannic structure here with a core of sweet fruit. So textural and vivid, with great balance and intensity. Ripe but firm, and avoids being at all jammy.

Powerful and structured with concentrated blackcurrant fruit and some sweet floral cherry notes around the outside. Pure, structural, with nicely integrated oak. Nice tannins here: they are present but not overpowering, and are resolving really nicely. Powerful and dense but with real finesse.

The first vintage of Chardonnay from Zena Crown, the 2021 Chardonnay Desiderium is more rounded and textural than the 2022. It pours a bright yellow/golden hue and reveals aromas of honeyed lemon, ginger, fresh flowers, caramel apple, and marzipan. Medium to full-bodied, it has a waxy texture and a golden hue, suggesting this wine will age beautifully. This marked Zena Crown's first white wine after a history of exclusively producing Pinot Noir. Drink 2025-2045.

The 2022 Pinot Noir The Sum comes from volcanic soils and includes a high proportion of whole clusters. It pours a medium ruby hue and opens with spice-laden aromatics of cardamom, incense, darker cherries, wild herbs, and cedar. Medium-bodied, it has a lifted, layered complexity and never turns astringent. Structured yet silky, it lingers long after the last sip. Drink 2025-2040.

From the west side of the vineyard near Justice Vineyard of Bethel Heights, the 2022 Pinot Noir Conifer is sourced from marine sedimentary soils. It opens with red cherry, porcini, mossy earth, and savory forest notes. Medium-bodied, it has clarity and purity beneath its savory depth, finishing with chalky tannins and a mouthwatering lift. Drink 2025-2040.

The 2022 Chardonnay Dropstone reveals a more pronounced reductive edge, with matchstick, wet stones, citrus blossom, grapefruit, and a hint of tropical fruit. Bright, laser-like acidity balances a silky mineral texture, and it’s fully dry, with delicate oak spice on the finish. Drink 2025-2037.

The 2022 Chardonnay Upland pours a bright yellow-straw color and was inspired by Pierre Overnoy in the Jura of France. The nose is expressive and savory, with ripe white peaches, stony earth, orange pith, and white mushrooms. Made without sulfur, it remains clean and focused. It’s medium-bodied, with mouthwatering acidity and a chalky, stony texture. Drink over the next 10 years.

The 2022 Pinot Noir Telluric (a new cuvée) is a deep magenta color and opens with aromas of black raspberry, violets, incense, and leather. Sourced from a one-acre block that formerly went to Beaux Frères, It’s snappy and polished on the palate, with crunchy fruit, angular acidity, and silky, chalky tannins. Drink over the next 15 years.

Giant Steps’ Coal River Valley Pinot Noir is from the Nocton vineyard, planted in 1999.

I tasted this beside the Giant Steps Yarra Valley wines and my first words were: “Less floral, more fruit.” This brings the polish, the flavour, the seduction. It offers the freshest of red and black cherries with woodsmoke and cedar running through, a touch of mint maybe, semblances of undergrowth, gorgeous length, the tannin almost seeming to blossom itself. Beautiful wine. Complete.

Intense cedar, cigarbox and garden mulch aromas, the palate nervy and taut, with tension and grip. It still has plenty of energy and zest for its age.

The 2022 Stonestreet ‘Estate’ Chardonnay is a rich, viscous and also very fresh effort that comes from this hot vintage. Buttercream and mango notes parade with cardamom dusted pastry crust and juicy lemon with a dash of sea salt on the palate. Very complex and nicely weighted, enjoy now and over the next eight years. Drink 2025-2033

Dynamic and savory, this Zin offers a keen core of lively acidity and tannins framed by expressive flavors of raspberry, pomegranate, briar patch and smoked pepper that gather tension toward fine-grained tannins. Drink now through 2035

The 2023 Siduri ‘John Sebastiano Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is sourced from this location on sandy as well as rocky/clay soils. The nose shows beautiful red florals alongside dense red and dark fruits and bergamot notes. The palate is refined and generous with great flavor density and tons of underlying finesse. Drink 2025-2038

This location was planted back in 2007 and neighbors the Gary’s Vineyard. This shows crazy good florals on the nose alongside dark fruits and damp, salty soil notes. The palate has amazing volume and tension with seriously good freshness and a silky mouthfeel. Drink 2025-2040

This 2023 ‘Gary’s Vineyard’ comes from Pisoni clonal selection Pinot Noir vines, as this is a slightly warmer site than Rosella’s Vineyard. This comes off lush and dense with a silky mouthful and plenty of tension. Red and dark fruits collide with the loaded of freshness on the palate. Drink 2025-2038

The 2023 Siduri ‘Van der Kamp Vineyard’ is a Sonoma Mountain site that was planted all the way back in 1960. Martin Van Der Kamp serves as proprietor here. Rocky soils mark the nose alongside cola, dark cherry and shades of compost. The palate is marvelously salty and stony with serious weight and texture. Drink 2025-2040

The Sealift Vineyard comes from this remote location in the Anapolis area, set on gold ridge sandy loam soils. Stored in 40% new French oak the 2023 Pinot Noir delivers concentrated red and dark fruits with orange peel, diatom, damp soils and shades of salted cola. This has really nice flavor complexity. Drink 2025-2038

The ‘Seascape Vineyard’ is an older site planted back in 1990. The wine has some 1A clone as well as mainly 777 clone.Stored in 30% new French oak this offers salted red fruits with diatom and orange peel on the nose. The wine is ultra-fresh with vibrant acidity and a minerality that will make your mouth water. Enjoy now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2025-2038

The Parsons Vineyard is a small location that has been first utilized by Siduri since 2007. Despite being so close to the ‘Barberi’ this shows a red fruit profile instead of a black fruit load. Salty soils collide with orange peel and bergamot notes on the palate. Drink 2025-2038

The 2023 Siduri ‘Dutton-Perry Ranch Vineyard’ Pinot Noir comes from this location in the Russian River Valley that was formerly known as the Keefer Ranch. Bright red fruits collide with cola and shades of peat moss notes. The palate has great loamy character with loads of bright red fruits and cola notes. This is seriously delicious stuff with a seamless mouthfeel. Drink 2025-2040

The 2023 Siduri ‘Barbieri Vineyard’ Pinot Noir was sourced from this location that neighbors the Parsons Vineyard on Olivet Road, set on more clay soils. The wine was given roughly 50% whole cluster fermentation. Bright black cherry and loganberry notes combine with salty soils. This is muscular and intense with refined tannins and shows cola notes alongside a seamless texture. Drink 2025-2038

The ‘Bloomfield’ comes from a foggy location that is farmed at roughly one ton an acre. Bergamot and shades of damp soils mingle well with wafts of white truffle. This is fresh and vibrant with serious tension and bright red and dark fruits. Only 13.5% alcohol, but this shows beautiful richness. Drink 2025-2038

The brilliant 2023 Siduri ‘Zena Crown Vineyard’ Pinot Noir comes from a single block in the vineyard, as this was stored in 30% new French oak before bottling. Rocky soils collide with orange peel, red currents and suggestions of damp earth on the nose. This has a delightful push/pull between the stony elements in the wine and the bright red and dark fruits. The palate is soft and very stony, showing outstanding terroir. Drink 2025-2040

Boldly structured but a wine with dimension and detail. Robust and rich blackberry flavors are highlighted by black olive, mocha espresso and tomato leaf tones that build density toward broad-shouldered tannins. Hands off for now. Best from 2026 through 2035.

Intense and expressive, with wonderful purity to the crunchy star fruit, pomelo, kumquat, tangerine and lemon sorbet flavors. Details of fresh ginger, lemon zest and lemon verbena, plus a hint of sea salt minerality, linger on the sleek, mouthwatering frame, with extra torque on the finish. Drink now through 2039.—M.W.