Outstanding.

To quote the late, great David Bowie, “leather, leather everywhere…” A-.

A 2013 Shiraz, labeled PF (for Peter Fraser), whole Shiraz grapes cofermented with 3 percent Roussanne, was made with no additions at all—no acid, no tannins, no cultured yeasts, no sulfur dioxide, and sterile-filtered to keep it stable. I found it fresh, with an expressive richness. For me, the assurance that nothing is going to spoil in the bottle makes up for any loss of texture from the filtration.

For our small birthday table, we also visit the hotel’s famous wine cellar, choosing a pretty special local Yangarra 2012 Ironheart shiraz to fit the celebration. Good red goes with anything in my book, including my star choice of fish wings.

Top-flight producer, Top flight wine. You could almost put any price on this and you'd still be reaching for your credit card. It's perfumed and polished, but rich with dark saturated, complex fruit and oak flavour. Tannin motors away in the background. By any measure this wine falls safely into exceptional territory.

The 2010 Iron Heart Shiraz, from those red gravel soils, was less opulent than expected, a more upright style, taut, focused, more structural than flavorful. Clearly, it's built to develop in the bottle.

Very dark crimson. Peppery nose signals Shiraz almost Syrah loud and clear. Very refined richness with leathery character. Admirably avoids being simply sweet and tough. There is lots of potential here. Firm and well balanced. With lots of vitality. Should make rather ravishing old bones. Probably worth waiting. Attractive, and unusual in Australia, dustiness. Very impressive persistence. Very interesting!

So much prettiness and power at once for so little money; gorgeous ripe fruit, teasingly soft texture, haunting persistence of flavor; perfect Aussie shiraz.

Very dark blueish crimson. A bit of oak on the nose and then very sweet, spicy and round initially though pretty tight and tart on the finish. Initially seductive, this wine is pretty demanding by the time it exits the mouth. Though the tannins are much smoother and the whole experience much sweeter than the Australian norm.

So much prettiness and power at once for so little money; gorgeous ripe fruit, teasingly soft texture, haunting persistence of flavor; perfect Aussie shiraz.

This wine exhibits great structure with a nice berry fruit nose and flavors. Good acidity and soft tannins would make this wine great for summer barbecues.

The 2009 Yangarra Estate McLaren Vale Shiraz...has an alluring aroma of dried wild herbs, and while the wine does suggest blackberries, its fruit is spicy and tangy, not sweet and enveloping. The wine is subtle...

Zippy acidity lifts toasty oak, chocolate and black-fruit flavors.

Interesting nose of mint sauce, blackcurrant, spice, blueberry, pepper and oak. Lots of fruit offset by good acidity, cinnamon and clove spice with a hint of vanilla.

Developed fresh nose of spice, herb, red plum, oak, coffee, coconut, red and black fruit. Rich, earthy, complex and flashy - a fine combination. A very enticing wine with supple, ripe tannins. Lovely palate.

A very good wine for the price and a panel favorite. Supple with black pepper, mocha, blueberry, menthol, black fruit, spice and toasty aromas and flavors, soft yet complex.

This wine is perfectly balanced and presented, showing both concentration and elegance. The brambly blackberry, blueberry and plum fruit flavors and aromas are quite inviting and will compliment many dishes...

Plum, berry and mocha nose flavors with a touch of vanillin oak. Rich and ready to drink. A great tribute to the Syrah grape.

Plum, berry and mocha nose flavors with nice vanillin oak. Rich and ready to drink. A great tribute to the Syrah grape.

Light and brightly fruity, relatively firm in support of its berry and mineral flavors, which echo nicely.

Great intensity, creamy and lush, Hesser said. Ford liked the smoothness and balance, and detected eucalyptus aromas. Prial called it long and powerful with good fruit and a tarry taste. But Asimov felt it was too oaky.

Filled with blackberry and strawberry fruit, it filled the mouth with soft tannins and vanillin oak. Again, it won't be the biggest shiraz you have ever tasted, but there won't be any doubt that it was well made.

Finally to my favourite, the 2018 NOIR, a very clever wine from the crossword on the front label that spells out the varieties involved in the blend, through to the thought and effort that must have gone in, to come up with such a smashing blend.