Sourced from a handful of blocks situated on the spine of the primary mountain crest that runs through the Alexander Valley estate, the 2010 vintage includes a splash of Petit Verdot and Malbec to round out the Cabernet.

An elegant cabernet with great structure. Notes of black cherry, plum, herbs and cracked black pepper. Firm tannins. Nice length. An impressive holiday cab.

Abundant, rich aromas of blackberry, fresh ground coffee, dark chocolate and a hint of smoke and cedar. Bright, tart flavors of dark berries, dark chocolate, mincemeat pie and fine, well-integrated tannins.

I was thinking of Goose Island on a recent tour of Alexander Valley, Calif., when I was smitten by a particular cabernet sauvignon. With its dark, intense flavors of blackberry and dark cacao and its firm tannins, it certainly spoke to where the grapes were grown—wind-swept cliffs hanging high above the valley below. The owner of these vines explained that they typically vinify a mind-numbing 200-plus separate lots (some less than acre in size), each with its own unique characteristics. She also said that the 900-acres of vineyards (many of which cannot be accessed by tractors due to the extreme slope) are spread out over her 5,100-acre estate. The wine that bowled me over was the 2009 Stonestreet “Rockfall” Cabernet Sauvignon ($75). The owner in question is Barbara Banke. Banke’s “other” winery is Kendall-Jackson.

Fairly direct, sweetened by obvious oak and yet fixed on black cherries, this accessible, slightly ripe-leaning wine shows subdued hints of olives and herbs that very much say Cabernet. It is fairly supple and easy on the palate at entry, but it picks up enough tannin to end on a puckery note, and, if not built for the long haul, it still wants for at least a few more years of age.

Savors and scents as long as its name; sure, there is concentration at every level, but like many mountain wines it's all delivered so prettily, like a linebacker running on tippy-toes.

Alexander Mountain Estate, Sonoma County: youthful, closed and tannic with hints of cassis, mint and herbs; should age into an impressive wine.

...Stonestreet is producing wine every bit as good. Every one of its reserve wines will wake up the palate with exciting concentration, dense fruit flavors and great complexity. This is a stunning wine.

Recommended as a wine to drink while reading An Ideal Wine: One Generation's Pursuit of Perfection - and Profit - in California by David Darlington: This cabernet from its Alexander Valley holdings is...pretty hefty, but delivers its power gracefully.

...the 2007 Monument Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon ($45) uses grapes from special blocks ranging in elevation from 800 to 2,400 feet. Dark in color, it has huge black cherry and plum flavors with a touch of dried herbs and mineral.

The holidays offer a great excuse to splurge on a wine gift. If your target is high-end California Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, I suggest forgoing the quest for a cult wine. Instead seek out one of the great wines below...These wines are some of the best this winery has ever produced.

Dense, opulent, exotic, wild blackberry fruit and Asian spice. Layered streaks of black chocolate, minerals and tobacco. Grippy tannins and brisk acidity. Will age well. From 2012.

Named after Jackson’s only son, the vineyard, planted in 1991, is at the highest elevation on the estate, some 2,400 feet up. The wine is an iron fist in a velvet glove: graceful yet powerful. It had concentrated plum and boysenberry flavors with a good dose of spice and a hint of dark chocolate.

This seems like classic Alexander Valley Cabernet, which always gives off an intriguing, foresty, piney scent to accent dark cassis and plum aromas. Its flavors are all in the blue and purple fruit spectrum, with an herbaceous background note that gives the wine elegance and complexity.

Dense chocolatey nose. Rich, with concentrated black fruits, sleek but structured, but with freshness and persistence. From 2010.

Unlike the 2004, this wine is mostly cabernet sauvignon with only 5 percent blended with cabernet franc. The fruit is bright and redolent of blackberry and cherry flavors with hints of cedar and mocha. The 2005 won't be on the market for a couple of months.

Push the boat out for these very limited-production Sonoma cabs.

This blend of Bordeaux grapes is a charmer. Using grapes planted 2,400 feet up, it has good complexity with a voluptuous mouthfeel. Ripe plums, dark chocolate, cherries and pure fruit flavors.

Ripe and showy, with cassis, red cherry and toasty oak aromas and flavors. Good acidity. Varietally correct.

Wow, what a mouthful of complex fruit. Made in great years, this reserve wine is named after Mr. Jackson's son. Both are something for him to be proud of. It is a huge wine with firm tannins, cedar, mint and currant notes stand behind the layered black cherry, cassis flavors. Only 250 cases made, so it may be hard to find.

Aromas and flavors of cherry, loganberry, blueberry and toasty oak. Nice core of fruit. Medium complexity.

Fairly showy, although on the tart side. Black fruit flavors, with notes of herbs and licorice.

Stonestreet has produced a barrel-fermented, pleasant, crisp, elegant 1997 Gewürztraminer.

Simply loaded with the deep spice generally found only in the wines of Alsace, this potent bottling announces itself immediately with broad aromas of allspice, dried orange peel, oak and flavors and follows on with mouthcoating flavors of spice-infused fruit. Fairly weighty in the mouth and viscous in feel, it is both soft and lingering.