Among the virtues of this Cabernet are that it is very concentrated in ripe fruit character - and yet it is not overly huge and powerful. The concentration comes from the vineyards, which, at 900 to 2,200 feet, are high and have shallow, poor soils typical of mountain sites that foster small, concentrated grapes. Another virtue is the soft, velvety tannin that makes the wine very enjoyable even at this young age. A large glass will enhance the wine's warm blackberry, toffee and dusty-earth aromas, as well as its ripe black cherry and cassis flavors; a narrower glass will enhance the wine's concentration.

Ripe plums and black currants come to mind when tasting this medium-to-full-bodied red, which seduces the drinker with hints of mint and soft tannins. Kendall-Jackson may be best known for its wines under $20, but this strong effort can hold its own with the big reds of Napa.

A Cabernet lover's dream come true. Here's proof positive that power and balance are capable of coexisting in harmony. The complex array of ripe, berry-driven fruit are skillfully monitored by deeply tiered layers of chewy black minerals, graphite and lead pencil. Full-bodied, spicy and loaded with rich deep texture and nuance, this Cab gives plenty to enjoy now; it's also capable of delivering pleasure with a future in mind. In my book, that's a win-win any way you slice it.

Rich, racy flavors of blueberries, cola and hugely appealing brown sugar and spice; lush, and breathtaking.

One of the riper of the Highland Estate's current crop of Cabernets, the Hawkeye Mountain shows intense varietal character. It's rich in black currants and cedar, with a tangy minerality and firm but pliant tannins. A beautiful Cabernet, at its best now and through 2015.

Just might be the best $25 Chard out there. Gorgeous, dramatic and opulent, with a creamy texture and ripe tropical fruit, smoky oak and vanilla flavors. There's a long, honeyed, buttercreamy finish.

Rich and concentrated with ripe cherry and extracted, deep, robust flavors; powerful, intense and spicy yet quite elegant.

Made from 34-year-old vines, this wine is bright and fresh with minerals, earth, dark cherry and concentrated notes of black tea; balanced yet full of complexity.

Shows the polish and finesse of a wine costing far more. Made from selected Monterey vineyards and with considerable new French oak, the wine is flashy and complex, with cherry, cola, pomegranate and spice flavors and a rich earthiness that suggests sautéed mushrooms or truffles. Really notable for its balance and depth.

The vineyard gets the benefit of cool breezes via the Petaluma Gap. The structure is very polished, with firm tannins and brisk acids framing blackberry, cherry, blueberry, cola and spice flavors. Notable for its richness and finesse, and a great success for a California Merlot.

Made from an average of 85-year-old vines; elegant and wonderfully juicy, with velvety texture, ripe plum and luscious black raspberry.

Here's a floral, minerally wine, with wildflower, orange spice and honey aromas almost like a Viognier. In the mouth, it erupts in fruit so sweet, it's almost like a dessert wine, with pineapple custard and lemon cream flavors. A little off-beat for a Chard, but very good.

Made from the young vines at Arrendell which produce a bright and seductive wine with silky spices, bing cherries, brown sugar and tea.

Cool climate elegance and floral notes with aromatics, spice and lively high tones; racy, long and bursting with bright citrus.

Ruby-red color. Intensely perfumed bouquet of spiced red berries, candied cherry and baking spices. Deep and sweet, with supple raspberry and cherry preserve flavors, soft tannins and a touch of finishing warmth. Ample, broad and sappy on the back, with the ripe red fruit flavors repeating. Not for Old World palates.

A little brittle in texture and transparent in flavor, with cherry, cola, herb tea and spice. Fine and clean, but tends toward lightness. Call it elegant, and enjoy with roast salmon, grilled lamp chops.

This silky, plush Cab, which contains some Mendocino and Napa fruit, is ready to drink now. Dry and tannic, it has chicory and sage herb notes framing riper flavors of blackberries and cherries.

Longtime favorite. Pleasant and easy to drink. Quite mouthwatering, with tastes of real fruit, especially ripe tropical fruits.

Rich and full to smell with plum, chocolate, earth and spice leading on to an equally rich and full bodied palate with the same plum, chocolate and pepper/spice flavours. It’s warmish and quite sweet but pulls it off with aplomb (and possibly a plum). Good texture, a hearty drinkability and a surprisingly dry finish round off an excellent wine.

Merlot plus an almost equal portion of Cabernet Franc with a little Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec in this blend. show generous concentrated dark fruit, spice, coffee/caramel/mocha undertones with hints of damp earth and tar. It has a warm dusty plum, cassis and spice palate, and very fine-grained but big, defined tannins that will be even more approachable with time.

Named for proprietor Barbara Banke's eldest daughter, Cambria Katherine's Vineyard is both vineyard designated and estate-grown on the famed Santa Maria Bench, in Northern Santa Barbara County. The nose is an attractive mix of honey and baked apple fruits with a steak of lees and bits of spice melon and cinnamon. The entry is rich, but with good acidity and crisp pear fruit, and a creamy lees finish. Very sophisticated California chardonnay, with a touch of butter and alcohol in the finish. Drink or hold a year or 2. Great with spaghetti alie vongole.

The peachy 2006 Cambria Katherine's Vineyard is a great choice.

At the ripe age of 34, Peter Fraser has made wine in Spain, France, the United States, and Australia. His current project happens to be in this latter country, where he has been making wine for Yangarra since the inaugural harvest in 2000. At Yangarra, he focuses on Rhône varietals, which seem to thrive in the cooler part of McLaren Vale - and which already have made the young winery an icon in the region. The Yangarra Estate Vineyard 2005 High Sands Grenache, McLaren Vale is an extraordinary wine. Silky and rich with racy, jammy, spicy blackberry and blueberry fruit, it delivers pure, intense acidity and elegant flavors.