The Nielson Vineyard, Santa Barbara's first commercial vineyard, is an excellent locale for Pinot Noir. This Pinot Noir has unusual complexity-old vines speaking-with both sweet, ripe cherry-like fruit notes and savory elements, even a hint of black pepper. Good acidity means it's vibrant, not heavy. A touch of heat-no doubt from the 14.4% stated alcohol-in the finish detracts from an otherwise outstanding Pinot Noir,

Matanzas has created a California Sauvignon Blanc with personality and class. French-born winemaker Francois Cordesse blended 21% of the juice in fine-grained French oak barrels and the remainder in stainless steel tanks then aged the final blend for three months in French oak. The result is a perfumed nose showing slightly muted signs of citrus zest, mineral and underlying spicy muscat. The complex flavors reflect the aromatics, with added pepper and toasted oak. Smooth and rounded, this tasteful wine finishes with class and plenty of fruit and no heat despite the 13.5% alcohol.

This is an unusually appealing California Pinot, which has atypical finesse and elegance for a Golden State Pinot. Winemaker Ivan Giotenov attributes this in part to the unique vineyard site, which he describes as 'A paradise for growing grapes' (the grapes for this Pinot came from a rocky 4-acre patch in the heart of the 1100 acre vineyard). The wine is relatively full-bodied and complex, with distinct red plum and blackberry flavors, and smooth, velvety tannins on the finish.

This zin ripened to lush blackberry and fig flavors. It's enriched by oak, smooth and supple, delicious sweet. Catch it as a young wine with roast squab or other game birds.

This may be the first time I've ever thought of a wine in terms of ballet, but as I tasted this Chardonnay I began to think that both need certain things to achieve success. Balance is vital, of course, to the wine and dance (we don't want the ballerina toppling off her toes, or the wine thrown off kilter by oak and/or alcohol). Complexity is likewise important (whether in choreography or flavor profile) and, ideally, passion will be showing through as well as basic skill. The Carmel Road Chardonnay succeeds on all counts: luscious fruit is well balanced between oak and the minerality that often characterizes this region's Chardonnay; the alcohol is well integrated into the body of the wine; the texture is full and lush without being heavy (weighty wines often appeal for a short time, but eventually fatigue the palate). All in all, I'd say this wine deserves a standing ovation.

'Tepusquet' is based on an old Chumash Indian name that means (roughly) 'copper coins' a reference to the copperish colored stones on the vineyard site. Curiously, the wine does have a slightly stony/minerally nuance underlying its charming floral notes. After crush, the juice was barrel fermented in one-and-two-year-old French oak, but happily the wine's brush will wood does not seem to have taken anything away from that bright, freshness one hopes for with Viognier.

One of the most alluring things about this wine is a balanced richness that bursts onto the midpalate. Many California Chardonnays are surprisingly difficult to pair with food (they are often too fruity, too oaky, too buttery, too alcoholic-or all of the above), but this one has just the right equilibrium to pair well with a variety of foods, especially something along the lines of cream-based pastas or soups (I had it recently with a grilled sandwich of Morbier cheese and sliced pear-a terrific partnering).

A beautiful Chardonnay, with a chalky minerality that anchors and braces ripe fruit flavors of Bosc pears and pineapples, subtlely accented with a new smoky oak. Bone dry, this polished wine shows lots of finesse and complexity.

This wine has a lot going for it, starting with its light red color. Why it actually looks like Pinot Noir for heaven's sake, not Syrah as far too many California Pinots do. And-surprise! surprise!-it even tastes like a delicate Pinot instead of a fruit-filled Syrah (another pet peeve of mine is California Pinto Noir in Syrah drag). This elegant wine is light in body, with classic notes of strawberry and cranberry. It you love simple, well made Burgundies as I do, this California version will undoubtedly please you.

Top Value of 2008

Behind the rich flavors and textures a refreshing zippiness pops out, just the way it does when you bite into a perfectly ripe (but not TOO ripe) peach. Among the wealth of appealing flavors you'll find tangerine, pineapple, and vanilla here.

This blend of Sauvignon Blanc and a small amount of Semillon is mostly tank fermented, with less than 5% of the juice undergoing barrel fermentation and then aging in French oak. The aromas are mineral and citrus with subtle fig notes, while the flavors show more stone fruit and minerality. It has good texture and plenty of fruit, with a hint of heat in the finish from the 13.5% alcohol.

It's hard to find a decent Pinot at this price, and Carmel Road's is quite decent indeed. While not as deep and complex as the same producer's Arroyo Seco Pinot (a much costlier wine), it nonetheless offers offers plenty of pleasure with its powerful hints of cherry and other red fruits, plus notes of carpaccio and a little smokiness.

Fresh and fruity, with elements of peaches, melon and lemon meringue, this is an honest Chardonnay whose natural virtues are allowed to shine without being shrouded in massive oakiness or blowsy fruit. A nice crisp finish makes it a winning wine to accompany a variety of seafood and poultry dishes, and it's pretty good as well with a simple pan-grilled pork chop.

Top Value of 2008

Vanilla and fresh lumber notes lead the way, but gardenia and stone fruits emerge in the mouth and lead to a long, creamy finish reminiscent of a peach milkshake. A final kick of acidity keeps the whole thing balanced.

Made in the familiar style that is K-J Vintner's Reserve, this Chardonnay shows pineapple, lemondrop, mineral and spice flavors balanced with crisp coastal acidity.

Spicy black cherries and licorice; opulent and ripe.

The venerable Sonoma County producer continues to make outstanding merlot and this one won't let you down. The aromas range from thyme to clove and the concentrated flavors include blackberry, cherry and quince. Soft and approachable, it's a good wine for stews and wild game.

A new appellation for an old favorite.

Closed, but quite fresh and lively. Well-defined. Balanced and ripe. Some nice fleshy fruit present and good acidity.

Generous cassis nose, ripe, but not overly.

Deep, resonant cassis/mulberry nose. Refined structure, good core of fruit, long satisfying finish- this is terrific.

Suave blackberry backed by tangy acidity; silky and bright with gorgeous structure and flavors.