2004 ALEXANDER VALLEY SNAKE EYES ELAINE MARIA VINEYARDS ZINFANDEL Rustic in its youth and blunt with raspberry jam flavors against staunchly dry tannins, this needs years to evolve into those tannins and the sharp, mineral acidity. It grows more complex and heady with air, a touch green, a touch pruney and entirely zin. (1,025 cases)

A substantial Pinot from first sniff to aftertaste, this full bodied bottling displays a bit of youthful narrowness to its ripe black cherry fruit, but it also carries a touch of enriching chocolate that helps fill things out. Plush and near to velvety in feel, the wine relies on the compelling richness that sets it apart to offset its finishing heat and tannin

With grapes grown on the Jackson Estate, this well-made chardonnay has lots of personality and ripe tropical fruit, citrus flavors. Soft, rich texture.

A full-blown example of the grand style of contemporary California chardonnay -- big, sweet and smoky with oak, but exquisitely balanced, with a length that leaves you marveling about how tiny grapes can yield juice with so much impact.

2005 EDMEADES ZINFANDEL, MENDOCINO COUNTY Zinfandel makes several different styles of red wine in California, roughly reflecting the county of origin. One of the most distinctive-and best-is that of Mendocino. This version from the reliable Edmeades winery is an excellent expression of the style-with high-toned, spicy, wild berry flavors, a pleasing acidity and well-concealed alcohol, even at 15.5 percent. It's an excellent value in a red wine ready for early consumption. Serve with pasta or grilled red meat.

Intriguing flavors of licorice, dark chocolate and coffee make the wine interesting; bright, rich flavors of red and dark berries practically beg for red meat or creamy cheeses.

A feminine chardonnay. Ripe and showy. Notes of butter, baked apple, caramel and toast. Medium complexity.

An unrestrained Super-Tuscan with a bold crescendo of ripe berry, toasted oak, tobacco and lavender flavors structured by firm tannin and mineral notes. Drink in 2-12 years.

This inexpensive effort may not compete with its pricier cousins when it comes to depth and potency, but it is decently focused on Zinfandel berries, it is supple in feel and it does not run afoul of bothersome heat. It is in all ways a tasty and functional table wine that goes down easily with food, and its slight lack of drama is small considering its inviting and oft-discounted price.

In another twist, the tasting started with the red wines, two that provided a striking New World-Old World contrast: Yanagarra Estate Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre Cadenzia McLaren Vale 2004 (93 pts. $25) saw extensive aging in new oak...Trotter was tyring to have a dish that would stand up to the power and concentration of the Australian wine. The audience liked both pairings, but gave the edge to Yangarra in their voting....Puck countered with a dih he called duck on duck on duck. I was surprised how food-friendly the Yangarra is, said the chef, It's riper, more approachable now.

Top 100 Wines of 2006 Yangarra Estate Vineyard 2004 Cadenzia #43 - 93 points Owned by Kendall-Jackson, Yangarra cultivates about 400 acres of vineyards in McLaren Vale's eastern foothills, where the climate tends to be cooler than in the rest of the appellation. Winemaker Peter Fraser makes this wine by blending 50 percent Grenache, 40 percent Shiraz and 10 percent Mourvedre. The Grenache vines, many of which were planted in 1946, grow in sandy soils without any irrigation. 2,474 cases made.

The wine that made America fall in love with Chardonnay is still semi-sweet, with a treasure trove of tropical fruit and spice flavors, boosted with creamy oak barrel influence, that's pretty irresistible at this price. Now sourced exclusively from coastal counties, the wine shows a brisk, citrusy acidity.

WHITE WINES California Chardonnay THREE STARS 2002 Carmel Road Arroyo Seco

2005 ARROWOOD HOOT OWL VINEYARD SPECIAL SELECT LATE HARVEST No one in American produces more decadently rich Auslese, Beerenauslese, and Trockenbeerenauslese-styled late harvest Rieslings than Dick Arrowood, who began making these wines when he was the winemaker at Chateau St. Jean during the decade of the seventies. While their colors now resemble molasses, they remain fresh and lively. Arrowood has hit home runs with all three covees in 2005. Although reminiscent of syrup, yet unbelievably fresh because of its superb acidity, the 2005 Special Select Late Harvest Riesling Hoot Owl creek was bottled with 17.4 grams of residual sugar. In addition to its terrific acidity, it possesses wonderful honeyed flavors. This effort can be served with dessert or as dessert....