Eighty-nine percent of the 2005 Vintner's Reserve Chardonnay Jackson Estates is aged 6 months in barrel with malolactic fermentation, which is pretty amazing considering the quantity and the sources. It is all coastal vineyards owned by Jess Jackson, with Monterey and Santa Barbara fruit composing three-fourths of the blend, and the rest from Mendocino. 2005 continues their streak of top-notch wines. Loads of tropical fruit, surprisingly deep texture, medium body, and wonderful purity results in crisp, elegant, dry Chardonnay. It is ideal for drinking over the next 1-2 years. This is unquestionably one of the world's finest Chardonnay bargains. It is almost too serious for its price point.

2005 HARTFORD ZINFANDEL HARTFORD VINEYARD Hartford Court's 2005 Zinfandels are considerably lighter than previous vintages. It was a cool year and I suspect Zinfandel never received the heat it needs to achieve full power. The 2005 Zinfandel Hartford Vineyard (289 cases) exhibits a dark ruby color, crisp acidity, a lean style, plenty of cherry and raspberry fruit, not a great deal of body, but good acidity, spice, and earthiness. Drink it over the next 3-4 years......

A Bordeaux-like blend of 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot, the 2004 Grand Reserve Meritage (762 cases) possesses more spicy new oak than its siblings, along with sweet berry fruit, fudge, coffee, and black currants. Well-made, medium-bodied, tightly-knit and closed at present, it requires 1-3 years of bottle age, and should evolve for 10-12 years.

The deep ruby/purple-tinged 2004 Grand Reserve Merlot (80% Sonoma and 20% Napa fruit) reveals notes of mocha, coffee beans, berries, spice and white chocolate. Although ready to consume, it should keep nicely for 5-6 years.

2004 PINOT NOIR RUSSIAN RIVER A cherry cough syrup character along with notions of toasty oak and beet root/root beer and followed by a lush, heady mid-palate and finish.

The 2005 Highland Estates Pinot Noir Seco is a crisp, cool climate example of Pinot offering cranberry, tart cherry, earth, and oak characteristics. Medium-bodied and charming, it should drink well for 2-4 years.

The 2004 Vintner's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is primarily from Sonoma, Mendocino, and Napa County vineyards. There are about 161,000 cases of this cuvee. Elegant, sweet red and black currant notes intermixed with spicy vanillin are found in this excellent, medium-bodied Cabernet. With sweet tannin and good underlying freshness, it will provide tasty drinking over the next 4-5 years.

2003 ARROWOOD CABERNET SAUVIGNON RESERVE SPECIALE The brilliant 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Speciale needs a lot of time, but it reveals plenty of potential. A 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon aged 18 months in French oak, there are only 1,580 cases of this beauty. Abundant creme de cassis notes intermixed with loamy soil, graphite, and flowers leap from the glass. There is a terrific fruit on the attack, full body, plenty of power and intensity, and a long, rich finish. It should be at its best in 4-5 years, and keep for 15-20.

2005 GEWURZTRAMINER SARALEE'S VINEYARD I tasted two very fine Gewurztraminers on my recent trip, on from Z Mor, and Dick Arrowood's 2005 Gewurztraminer Saralee's Vineyard. Very authentic, it enjoyed a whole cluster fermentation and was kept in stainless steel, resulting in a luscious rose petal-scented perfume, plenty of body, and hints of exotic fruits as well as assorted flowers....

2005 CHARDONNAY ALEXANDER VALLEY The 2005 Chardonnay Alexander Valley, is an 8,000-case cuvee revealing plenty of crisp acidity as well as orange marmalade and honeyed lemon notes. It is a lovely, fruity white with the wood component kept well in the background...

87 La Crema 2004 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). There's a bit of leathery funk, for those who like that, to the cherry, cocoa cola and spice flavors of this dry, silky wine. It's a little soft, with a smooth, polished texture that makes it easy to drink. -- S.H.

At this price, VR is treading into high-priced waters, but quality is keeping up. The wine is rich and lush, with a fine balance of dusty tannins, crisp acids, and direct blackberry, coffee and herb flavors.

ARROWOOD VINEYARDS THREE AND A HALF STARS 2002 SONOMA COUNTY CABERNET

Murphy-Goode, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County. Plump, polished, ripe plum, mulberry, blackcurrant. Plush, gorgeous, silky dark fruit. Up to 5 years.

2005 La Crema Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Rose Sleek and elegant, it offers vivid cherry and strawberry aromas and flavors, impeccable balance and a spicy-fresh finish.

La Crema, Nine Barrel, Russian River Valley Sonoma County 2003 Elegant and subtle aromas. Juicy, ripe, rich. Tannins provide structure with acidity carrying flavours to a long length. Up to 5 years.

Shows real Pinot character in the light silkiness, nice acidity, and flavors of cherries, cream and vanilla spice. If you're just starting to get into the variety, this is a good into.

Does just what VR does across all varieties, offering up a ripe, varietally true Zin that's all about upfront fruit and spice. Finishes with a scour of dusty tannins.

Consistently one of the best proprietary blends of northern California, Cardianle's 2004 is 100% Napa fruit (from Mt. Veeder, Howell Mountain, Stags Leap District, and Oakville). This blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Merlot boasts a dense purple color in addition to sweet aromas of kirsch, black currants, licorice, olives, and spice box. Fabulous texture, full-bodied power, pure fruit, and an opulent, voluptuous finish nearly conceal significant tannin. This beauty should drink well young, yet age easily for 15 more years. Not yet released. Previously recommended: 2003 Proprietary Red Wine (95).

Peppery, earthy, saddle leather nose with cardamom, blackberry and cassis with smoky, coffee, vanilla streaks. Rich, supple and concentrated palate with spicy, peppery, coffee, cassis jam flavours and lively sweet blackberry fruit flecked with cedar and tobacco. Fine-grained tight tannins on the long finish.

2004 VERITE LA MUSE The inky/ruby/plum/purple-tinged 2004 La Muse, primarily Merlot with a bit of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon from Bennett Valley, Alexander Valley, and Knight's Valley, is meant to be a Pomerol-styled effort. Notions of Mocha, sweet espresso roast, plum, anise, and black cherries jump from the glass of this aromatic 2004. Abundant spice, subtle notes of French oak, and a full-bodied, fleshy personality result in an enjoyable as well as accessible wine to drink over the next 12-15+ years.

2004 VERITE LA JOIE The 2004 La Joie, which is sourced from the same areas as La Muse, is usually composed of 70% or more Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc. This pauillac-like effort is more tannic, structured, and masculine, offering hints of forest floor intermixed with smoke, seaweed, black currants, scorched earth, graphite, chocolate, and coffee. Powerful, big, and back-strapping, it is atypical for a 2004 given its structure and brooding character. Cellar it for 2-4 years and consume it over the following 15 or more.

2003 NINE BARREL PINOT NOIR (RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY) With crisp tartness and beautifully ripened fruit, this Pinot Noir shows it's cool-climate terroir. Floods the mouth with tiers of cherry, cola, root been, licorice, spices and toasty oak, leading to a long, rich and fine finish. It's a bit immature now, although it'll wash down a great steak, but probably better 2007-2010. - S.H.

A rich, sumptuous perfume of blueberries, mountain flowers, and briery fruit is followed by perfume a focused, glycerin as well as fruit-filled Zinfandel that should drink well for 5-6 years.

Strapping black tannins hide this wine, needing a day of air before they begin to relent. Black fruit comes out from under their grip, sweet and ripe enough to balance the mineral savor. Hard edged for now, this should prove itself with eight or ten years of age, suited, eventually, to roast lamb.