Grown at the Jackson family's Alexander Mountain estate, this wine leads with tannin and ends with more savory tannin. In between, there's plenty of wild cherry and fresh black currant flavor to cut through the dense blackness. A sophisticated, foresty cabernet with the structure to evolve for a decade, this could be made accessible sooner by pairing it with a grilled T-bone.

A huge red, this big, black cabernet is full and complete all the way through. It tastes like a rich man's wine, solidly built, significant in structure and chocolate-warm.

2005 ZINFANDEL FANUCCHI WOOD ROAD VINEYARD Hartford Court's 2005 Zinfandels are considerably lighter than previous vintages. It was a cool year and I suspect Zinfandel never received the heat it needs to achieve full power. The 2005 Zinfandel Fanucchi-Wood Road Vineyard offers elegant blueberry and raspberry aromas interwoven with hints of pepper and spice. Although medium-bodied, with more intensity, richness, and length than the Hartford Vineyard Zin, it does not possess as much power and richness as the 2004 or 2003....

Exhibits abundant amounts of briery blueberry fruit along with hints of oak, kirsch, and spice box. Enjoy this big, savory, juicy Zin over the next 2-3 years.

A structured as well as elegant effort revealing notes of roasted herbs, meat, berry fruit, and a hint of tar.

Sweet, spicy notes of cinnamon, black cherry jam, cold steel, and crushed rocks jump from the glass of the medium ruby-colored 2004 Pinot Noir Sevens Bench Vineyard. Riper than some of its siblings, with sweeter cherry fruit as well as abundant spice, it should be consumed over the next 3-4 years.

Mildly minty and kissed with wisps of dried herbs in its otherwise creamy, cherry-like nose, this well-ripened wine is both full in body and slightly soft on the palate. It is firmed up by a welcome bit of last-minute tannin, but it dries just enough to be noticeable and its prospects for improvement with age are fairly modest.

2005 CHARDONNAY STONE COTE Limited in availability, the 990-case cuvee of 2005 Chardonnay Stone Cote (essentially a single vineyard parcel within the Durell Vineyard) is a mineral-dominated effort revealing notions of limes, lemons, tangerine oil, and flint. Full-bodied with Burgundian-like leesiness, it is a rich Chardonnay to consume over the next 5-6 years. This is one of my favorite wineries for Burgundian-styled Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs as well as full-throttle Zinfandels (although the 2005s are lighter than usual). Don Hartford and Jess Jackson have incredible access to some fabulous vineyards.

2004 CHARDONNAY RESERVE SPECIALE Arrowood's top Chardonnay, the 2004 Reserve Speciale, is a 357-case offering that represents a selection from three separate vineyards, and receives the same treatment as the Alary vineyards cuvee. Copious quantities of orange blossom, pineapple, and other tropical fruits are accompanied by good definition, refreshing acidity, and a full-bodied, concentrated mouthfeel.

2005 HARTFORD COURT CHARDONNAY FOUR HEARTS A new offering, the 2005 Chardonnay Four Hearts is a 11,000-case cuvee of stunning Chardonnay. Beautiful aromas of honeysuckle, peach blossoms, poached pears, and subtle wood are present in this well-made, elegant crisp, aromatically expressive white. Medium to full-bodied, long, and pure, it should provide plenty of pleasure over the next 3-4 years. This is one of my favorite wineries for Burgundian-styled Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs as well as full-throttle Zinfandels (although the 2005s are lighter than usual). Don Hartford and Jess Jackson have incredible access to some fabulous vineyards.

2005 CHARDONNAY SONOMA 2005 Chardonnay is a 23,500 case wine that enjoyed 95% malolactic fermentation as well as eight months in French oak (only 325 new). Smoke, lemon oil, white currant, white peach, hazelnut, and orange rind aromas jump from the glass of this 2005. It displays terrific fruit and purity, but little evidence of wood.

2004 PINOT NOIR LOS CARNEROS The medium ruby-colored 2004 Pinot Noir Los Carneros (3,500 cases) shows more forest floor, spicy cherry, cinnamon, and Allspice aromas and flavors. It appears to be the most complex of the trio.

88 POINTS 2004 HARTFORD COURT PINOT NOIR SEASCAPE A Cote de Beaune-like offering, the 2004 Pinot Noir Seascape, offers classic notes of pomegranate, sweet and sour cherries, raspberries, root beer, and spice. It's a wine of finesse and elegance rather than power and intensity. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. This is one of my favorite wineries for Burgundian-styled Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs as well as full throttle Zinfandels (although the 2005s are lighter than usual). Don Hartford and Jess Jackson have incredible access to some fabulous vineyards.

88 POINTS 2004 HARTFORD COURT PINOT NOIR HAILEY'S BLOCK The Pinot Noirs include the cold climate 2004 Pinot Noir Hailey's Block from the Green Valley. Made from younger vines from the Arrendell Vineyard, it exhibits a medium ruby color, scents of Allspice, mulberries, sweet and sour cherries, and tart acidity. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. This is one of my favorite vineries for the Burgundian-sytled Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs as well as full-throttle Zinfandels (although the 2005s are lighter than usual). Don Hartford and Jess Jackson have incredible access to some fabulous vineyards.

2004 PINOT NOIR ANDERSON VALLEY

2005 CHARDONNAY RED POINT ALEXANDER VALLEY reveals plenty of honeyed melons, crushed rocks, white currants, and white peaches. This fresh, lively Chardonnay is more similar to a Chablis than most California Chardonnays. It should drink well for 3-4 years.

89 La Crema 2004 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Shows lots of polish in the ripe tropical fruit and green apple flavors that have a baked, buttery pie crust edge. Brisk cool-climate acidity perks up these rich flavors and makes the wine clean and balanced. -- S.H.

There's plenty of ripe Cabernet flavor in this succulent wine. Cherries, raspberries and blueberries are supported by fine, expressive tannins and crisp acidity, leading to a dry, spicy finish.

In a tasting of American Zinfandel between $20 and $50 from recent vintages, these were our favorites. 2003 Liars's Dice Zinfandel What a surprise; a real good food zin. All the right tastes with blueberries, pepper and earth, but a great deal of restraint and vibrant, food-friendly acidity. VERY GOOD

K-J turns out oceans of wine, but it's all made with the precision of a boutique grower. The new Cabernet Sauvignon is smooth and round, with ripe, dusty tannins for structure and toasty French oak for mouthfeel, spice and complexity. It's all Napa and Sonoma fruit, with splashes of Merlot and Petite Verdot, and is aged 15 months in wood, 34 percent new barrels. Aromas of cassis, blackberries, cocoa and brown spice are followed by notes of cedar, smoke and earthiness on the palate. If you're overwhelmed by all the labels on wine shelves today, don't worry a second about picking a Kendall-Jackson wine. They're always on my short list of reliable, affordable producers.

A fruity young red is a match for Turkey Day. For pinot noir, look for the spicy, medium-weight 2005 Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve Pinot Noir.

Lokoya Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (Diamond Mountain District, Napa Valley) Black as night, with intense, blackberry tastes and hints of chocolate, mint and tobacco. Huge, but surprisingly elegant and balanced, with a long, dry, peppery finish.

U.S. PINOT NOIR THREE STARS 2004 Carmel Road Monterey

Lokoya Howell Mountain 2003 This latest single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon from winemaker Christopher Carpenter is a refined and inky brew. The nose gives off violets, spicy plum, cassis, vanilla ice cream, and chocolate, and the finish is a lengthy tour de force that culminates in a satisfying minerality.