Though Kendall-Jackson's iconic Vintner's Reserve Chardonnay remains immensely popular, longtime winemaker Randy Ullom tweaks his successful model-quite effectively with the first vintage of this bottling. The wine is made solely in stainless steel tanks and older barrels (which impart no oak flavors), keeping its lemon-citrus flavors lively and crisp.

Granny Smith apple juice as wine, with a frame of softly rendered, barrel-touched ferment. A super mix of California's better regions in one white.

Aromas of green apple, pear, orange and vanilla. Aggressive flavors of tart green apple, lemon, lime, honey, cinnamon and clove with lingering background earthiness and creaminess.

This warhorse that has courted palates for more than 30 years still has edge. The aromas singe your nostrils with lime, citrus, apple and pineapple. In the mouth, you pick up the butterscotch and spice off oak barrels. This vintage comes with a neck tag that displays a QR code that can be scanned into smart phones for viewing tasting notes.

A good, showy chardonnay with aromas and flavors of baked apple, toast, herbs and spice. A creamy, lush texture, yet has good acid. A great value.

Straightforward citrus flavors are rich yet focused in this tasty KJ white.

A showy, rich chardonnay with notes of pear, apple, herbs and spice. Caramel finish.

The firm, keenly Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve 2008 from Monterey and Santa Barbara Counties simple shines at the price.

Made from grapes grown in Jackson Estate's coastal vineyards, this tasty Chardonnay offers aromas of bright citrus, pineapple, green apple and toasty vanilla. The palate is crisp and food-friendly with tropical and apple flavors and just a hint of toasty oak on the finish. A very good value for summer sipping.

Each issue, our editors huddle up and select a pair of can't-miss, quality wines that are readily available across the country. This issue we suggest a red (shiraz) and white (chardonnay) combo that is a classic backyard pairing awaiting a barbecue or a block party or both. Spicy, melon, floral, butter, vanilla, mango, guava, light lychee aromas. Round, soft, off-dry palate with somewhat juicy acidity. Buttery, spicy lees, melon, honey, lychee, mango and vanilla flavours with a creamy finish. Riper, tropical style that offers good intensity and balance, with some finesse.

California: rich and ripe, with aromas and flavors of peaches and apricots.

Hard to go wrong with ol' KJ. Comfort wine for comfort sipping in these hard times.

You can't beat this wonderfully textured chardonnay from a prime growing region for chardonnay. Mango and spice with soft mouthfeel and long finish.

A tropical chardonnay that's balanced and elegant. Notes of pear, melon, apple, toast and spice. A sweet finish.

By the way, if you really, really are determined to pick up an American Chardonnay for less that $20, perhaps for entertaining this summer, you could do a lot worse than good old Kendall-Jackson. We always disagree about it - Dottie likes its round, buttery, mouth-coating and slightly Muscaty tastes, while John finds it too lab-made and oaky - but we both agree that there's never anything wrong with it and it's easy enough to drink. It's a solid Good wine, it costs about $12 or so and it's available pretty much everywhere. K-J has this Chardonnay down to a science...

The K-J Vintner's Reserve Chardonnay -- it's iconic in its price category.

Price is always a factor in choosing wine. ...some good and widely available values are made. Try Kendall-Jackson's 2007 Vintner's Reserve.

Chardonnay remains a big seller, but inexpensive versions can be noticeably sweet. Still there are some good choices out there. The ubiquitous 2007 Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve Chardonnay does contain a bit of residual sugar, but it's well-balanced by acidity, and the wine displays racy apple and pear flavors.

Here's a nicely balanced chardonnay that shouldn't be too hard to find around town and that drinks especially well for the price. The nose is fairly restrained for California chardonnay, with bits of butteriness and mango on the nose. The taste is smooth but not overly soft, with well-integrated flavors of apple and tropical fruits. Oh, and for you point-chasers out there: Robert Parker rated this wine at 90 points.

The flavors exceed what you would expect from a wine at this price. Ripe apple flavors with citrus notes and a hint of mango. a little residual sugar give it generous mouthfeel.