...test the superlative qualities of California's La Crema Pinot Noir.

From the Russian River Valley, this pinot noir has distinctive black cherry flavors and tantalizing spice.

dry, full-bodied, full tannin, medium acidity; One of the finest Zinfandels we have tasted in a long while.

dry, medium-bodied, medium tannin, medium acidity; A lovely wine full of dried-cherry flavor, with some notes of bitter herbs and a bit of smokiness.

dry, full-bodied, medium acidity, medium oak; Sumptuous--like lemon mousse with tart, creamy flavor and velvety texture.

dry, light-bodied, light tannin, medium acidity; Vivid tart cherry flavor, accented by a little smokiness. Light and inviting. It's well-priced too.

Bright cherry scents turn toward blueberry syrup flavors in this light and gentle syrah. What it lacks in impact it makes up for in grace, in its ease as a house pour.

dry, medium-bodied, medium tannin, medium acidity; Strawberry, blackberry, green pepper flavors. Simple but serviceable.

Blended from a range of vineyards, virtually all from the Napa Valley (one percent from Alexander Valley), this cabernet comes off soft and ripe. The sweet red jam flavors have a crispness in the finish...

dry, full-bodied, full tannin, medium acidity; This wine delivers big, bold flavors: blackberry, cassis, cherry, vanilla, and tar.

dry, full-bodied, medium acidity, heavy oak; An explosion of citrus and creamy mango flavors.

dry, full-bodied, high acidity, heavy oak; A buttery, toasty, pineapple-y cliche of a Chardonnay with a dollop of acidity.

Lush and delicious, this richly fruited wine roars from glass with a serious, yet still sexy plum, chocolate, spice and cedar nose. Plush tannins and an even mouthfeel full cherry, plum and cocoa flavors, and this impressive first release finishes long and dry. Appealing now, but has tannins to lose. Should be even better in two years. Hold until 2008.

Dark and mouthwatering, this cabernet strikes a natural balance between the juiciness of its plummy red currant fruit and the succulent richness of its tannins. The freshness of acidity plays as important a role as the tannin, creating a transparency to the earthy expression of the wine, ultimately simple but clear and true. Principally grown in Rutherford and Oakville, this cabernet's red and rusty chime of fruit will resonate...

Begins with inviting blackcurrant and cassis aromas and notes of dark chocolate, smoke and plums. There's a voluptuous, seductive texture with velvety smoothness, and the flavors are of perfectly ripened berries framed in vanilla-tinged oak. Soft and complex with a stylish finish, this beauty is ready to drink now.

These two single-vineyard selections (1999 Bench Break Vineyard Chardonnay) from Cambria are sitting in their oak right now. The quality and character of other recent releases make it more likely that the leesy flavors of barrel age and dominant scent of wood sap will yield to the soft and zesty fruit underneath. Right now, there's a touch of lemon grass and sandy elegance to the finish, ready for substantial fish like arctic char. In time, that citrus fruit may absorb some of the oak and enrich itself further.

Smells rich and chocolaty, with blackberry and plum scents framed in plush, smoky oak. You'll like the richly sweet flavors, offering layers of berries and tree fruits, and the lush structure provided by fine, dusty tannins. It's overtly soft, with low acidity, and very flattering on the palate.

Taken to super-ripeness, this robust, prune-scented cabernet blend has the grip of black tannins and the grit of black pepper. It's more about structure than fruit at this early stage, emphasizing Indian spices, cumin and darker, richer cocoa. Cellar this to let the fruit emerge.

Aromas of smoke, plum, earth , espresso and blackberry are pleasant. In the mouth, the flavors are terrifically extracted, with pronounced berry and stone-fruit notes that are very dry. It's on the soft side, with velvety tannins. The lip-smacking finish is deliciously spicy.

The wine's tropical fruit is blunted by oak; ripe as white peach, it's darkened by minerals and tree sap to disappear in the end. Place it with a veal stew to occupy the oak, and give the fruit a chance to make a comeback.

Toasty oak and cinnamon aromas team up with lovely pear, apple, citrus and spice flavors. Fleshy-textured, with a moderate finish.

From six coastal counties, a varietally true Pinot at an everyday price, which is a rare thing. Delicate aromas of beet, mushroom, hard spice, tea and black cherry precede a balanced, silky, dry wine, with good berry flavors and a sprinkling of dusty tannins.

Forward tropical fruit nose with spicy oak backnotes; crisp acidity, layered fruit; quintessential California Chardonnay.