The Ovitelli Grenache is fermented and matured in ceramic eggs, the Hickinbotham Grenache in cocciopesto stone amphora and the High Sands Grenache in old oak. The maturation vessels largely define the personalities of the wines—the vineyards too—and so the differences between them are stark. I like this 2022 Hickinbotham Grenache, as it gives permission for us all to "have a favorite" without declaring one is necessarily better than another. Here, the fruit is from Clarendon (hence Hickinbotham, the other part of Jackson's Family Wine Estates in McLaren Vale) and has an inherently darker register of flavor and tannin. The fruit was destemmed and crushed prior to its 150 days in amphorae, and this seems to emphasize the licorice and wet asphalt, petrichor and black tea, black olive tapenade and caper brine. Bitter amaro herbs are profuse in this wine, with dried rosemary and thyme, orange peel and tobacco, old rose petals and blood orange acidity. As this wine opens up in the glass, it is knitting together admirably, leading me to suggest that time in a decanter is a necessary action. Gritty tannins through the finish complete the picture. 14.5% alcohol sealed under screw cap.

Subtle nutty notes mingle with lime blossom and fresh pear. Very silky, very fine, with a beautiful velvety texture. Acidity is deep set, and has some subtle textural notes providing interest on the palate. Gently saline. Very long – and should age with interest. Their oldest Roussanne vines, hand-picked, fermented in ceramic eggs. Half was fermented on skins and remained on them for 120 days before pressing. All matured for four months in ceramic eggs before bottling.

Exotic spice woven through vibrant fruits. Some slightly earthier elements too: porcini powder, candied beets. High notes of bergamot and white pepper. It moves with a slippery momentum, plush fruit pulled along by gently buffed tannins and a precise acid line. Complex, composed and a harbinger of great things to come.

During my tasting with winemaker Kristy Melton in July of 2024, she unveiled this brand-new wine for the Freemark Abbey portfolio. There has not been a new single-vineyard Cabernet in the Freemark Abbey portfolio since 1984, until this Colline Vineyard bottling. Sourced from blocks at the front of the Cardinale property on the east side of Highway 29, in the same bale clay loam soils as To Kalon across the street. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged 26 months in 66% new French oak. A very pure, dark fruit character resonates in the glass, nuanced by expressive graphite minerality and that fragrant oakville garrigue of sagebrush, along with elegant cedarwood notes. Full-bodied with a wonderful core of inky black fruit framed by superfine-grained tannins that coat the palate, resolving with lovely savoury notes of black liquorice, black olive, a hint of violets and charcuterie. Very polished. This will remain the portfolio moving forward with an annual production of around 500 cases. In its debut 2021 vintage, only 100 cases were produced due to low yields.

This wine is rich, with aromas of blackberry, cassis, plum, orange zest and allspice on the nose. The flavors on the palate are red plum, pomegranate and orange marmalade, intertwined with vanilla cream, bay leaf and a dry, silky finish. Hold or drink until 2034 Pair with short ribs.

The nose shows aromas of lemon pith, orange zest and jasmine. The palate is full-bodied and textured, with bright acid and a long, lingering finish that has notes of honeydew melon, green papayas, red apples and flint. Powerful with restraint. Grown at 550 meters in vineyards planted in 1982. Drink or hold.

This red shows a balance of power and restraint, with aromas of black cherries, dark chocolate, coffee and cloves. The palate is full-bodied, showing fine tannins and acid with lingering notes of blackcurrants, cured meat, earth and tomato bush. Grown at 670 meters on volcanic quartz soil. Drink or hold.

The aromas are rustic and savory, with dark fruit, brambles, dark chocolate and thyme. The palate is full-bodied with silky yet firm tannins, bright acidity and layers of blackcurrants, charcuterie, graphite and sage. Very good. Single vineyard grown at 600 meters on a southeast-facing slope. Drink or hold.

This Pinot, about $10 a glass, absolutely overdelivers. It tastes like it costs way more than it does. There’s lots of beauty and length here. Plus a core of scrumptious, sophisticated, rich fruit. But what I love most is how much the Gran Moraine Pinot smells like the Oregon countryside itself—Earthy wet forests, tender juicy wild berries, rolling hillsides of orchards, ancient volcanic rock. Nature, in a state of aliveness.

The 2022 Chardonnay Perilune is a big step up from the 2021. At this stage, one year makes a huge difference for a vineyard that was planted so recently (2017). Airy, bright and chiseled, the 2022 has a ton to offer. This is an especially taut, sculpted style for Brewer-Clifton.

The 2022 Chardonnay Perilune is cut from the same cloth as the Hapgood, with a clean yet savory, mineral-laced style. Toasted bread, stone fruits, crème brûlée, and chalky notes all define the aromatics, and it brings a medium to full-bodied, broad, concentrated, layered style on the palate that stays lively and focused, with good acidity. It will drink brilliantly for a decade or more. 192 cases.

Lastly, the 2022 Pinot Noir Machado has a juicy, upfront nose of wild strawberry and framboise-like fruit as well as spring flowers, violets, and baking spices. Shining for its remarkable purity and freshness, it has medium to full-bodied richness, a round, layered mouthfeel, ripe tannins, and a great finish. It's much closer to the 459 in style than the Perilune (although these each have their own unique style) and is one for those who love the more pure, lively, fruit-driven style of Pinot Noir. 761 cases.

The 2022 Pinot Noir 3D is slightly darker hued and offers a more savory profile of mulled cherries, leather, loamy earth, forest floor, and spring flowers. Medium to full-bodied, this supple, elegant 2022 has fine tannins, a nicely balanced, silky mouthfeel, and a great finish. It has a more approachable style yet will still benefit from just a year or two of bottle age. It's another gorgeous wine from the talents of Greg Brewer. Drink bottles through 2034. 294 cases.

It is a characteristic cat pee bouquet, with a contrasting sweetness profile on the palate and subtlety that makes it
remarkably inviting but also doesn’t erase its character. Coming from a fairly high elevation between 250-350m, the
fruit isn’t as ripe and bright as it could be– it’s much more muted– but delightful and satisfying nonetheless. The
acid sings as it should,. Dink now til 2028

From six estate blocks, split between ironstone and sand, destemmed with half left as whole berries; élevage in French puncheons, with 25% new and the remainder 1–3-year-old oak. This is remarkably pretty upfront, bursting with red berries and cherries, underneath a bedrock of ferrous minerality – the split of soils writ large – along with baking spices and rosy florals. Trademark Yangarra tannins kick in swiftly and carry the flavours long through a savoury finish. This is charming, but it’s also built for food. Seems like a very fine year for shiraz at this address.

From across the estate’s 13.3ha of '46-planted bush-vine grenache. Half whole-berry ferment with gentle pumpovers and extended maceration on some parcels (up to 10 months); matured in older French puncheons, foudres, ceramic eggs and amphorae. Structured and compact, with a pervasive line of acidity, this requires considerable air to amplify its charms. Once achieved, the flavour set remains savoury but with more levity. Dried cranberry and cherry, faded red florals, cracked earth and pepper, the tannins mouth-puckering and sandy – nebbiolo-like. This needs ample time and will age extremely well.

From block 208, contour planted in '73; destemmed and some lightly crushed, with 21 days on skins; matured in 100% new French oak for 15 months. This is showing some maturity but still has fruit-forward notes and a lifted perfume, with tobacco, green peppercorns, tomato leaf and bay, along with Worcestershire sauce, crème de cassis, blackberry and currants. Tannins are still impactful, with more time, no doubt, bringing even more rewards.

A blend of 87/11/2% cabernet franc/merlot/malbec. From a block planted in '13; crushed fruit fermented with native yeast; 16 days on skins; 15 months' maturation in French oak (60% new), then blended and matured in old oak for two months. This is an expressive take on cabernet franc, but as with all the wines in the '22 range, elegance and varietal clarity are prized, with this clocking in at moderate alcohol and with refined structural drive.

From two blocks planed in 1976 and 1989. Crushed fruit, ambient ferment, with 16 days on skins; matured in French barriques (60% new) and foudre for 12 months. Merlot has had a tough trot in this country, but Californian winemaker Chris Carpenter is well schooled in the ways of the grape. This harnesses a more rounded fruit profile, but also with proper linear tannins and drive. It’s a relatively elegant expression, though with a depth of plum and mulberry, subtle florals, graphite, roasted hazelnut and a balanced gloss of classy oak.

Light to medium in color with a gorgeous nose. Pomegranate and cranberry with a touch of oak (very subtle). Rich, without being over-the-top, fruity, but far from a bomb, and fantastic balance. Whoa. Outstanding.

Hibiscus, orange peel, and sliced strawberry aromas. Medium-bodied with a firm and juicy finish. Structured and solid. Impressive length. Layered and serious. Needs time to soften and come together.

A refined and layered red with dried strawberry, cherry and orange peel aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied. Medium velvety tannins, fresh and bright. Fruity yet energetic. Vivid. Drink or hold.

This is a fun, easy-drinking wine that's chock full of yellow and green citrus fruits and golden and green kiwi flavours. The texture is that of rough green kiwi skin-- the kind that feels a bit prickly and tickles the tongue-- but it's not off-putting. It's light and lifted and a great addition to any cellar.

Its first vintage as a stand-alone wine, the 2021 Chardonnay Desiderium does not disappoint. A bright yellow/silver color, I love its nose, which has a really fresh lift to its aromas of lime leaf and lime zest, pristine green apples, delicate spices, and a pleasing, delicate reduction. Full-bodied, it has a silky and delicate, creamy texture, with a more broadly expanding, weightless feel and a long, long finish. It’s very nicely styled and is going to show its best over the coming 8-10 years.

A jeweled ruby hue, the 2021 Pinot Noir The Sum takes on fantastic crystalline and pure aromas of wild strawberries, raspberries, dark stones, menthol, and cedar spice, but it’s not very oaky. Medium-bodied, it has ripe tannins, with ripe acidity and a bit more modest acidity compared to the other wines from Zena Crown, but it’s long on the palate, with a more autumnal sensibility, and it’s going to show its best over the next 12-15 years.