The 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder is gorgeous, but it is also going to require the most time of these wines to come together. Firm tannins provide the backbone for an exciting array of aromas and flavors. Intense savory and mineral notes meld into layers of blue/blackish fruit in a big, full-bodied Cabernet endowed with stunning depth and structure. All the best elements of the house style come together. With time in the glass the fruit opens up to balance some of the tannic heft, but this is without question a wine made for the cellar.

Another blockbuster, the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder, which has the largest production, exhibits a deep blue/purple color along with notes of burning embers, charcoal, sweet black currant liqueur, licorice and scorched earth. It possesses fabulous fruit along with full-bodied power, a voluptuous texture and beautiful density as well as richness. It is not far off the quality of the brilliant 2007. One of the stars in Jess Jackson's Artisans and Estates portfolio, Lokoya focuses on high elevation mountain vineyards in four separate Napa appellations. Winemaker Chris Carpenter has been the force behind these wines for many years.

If I had to pick a favorite of the trio, it would be the 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder (280 cases). A Chateau Margaux look-alike, it possesses superb intensity and tremendous perfume as well as elegance allied to power. The sweet nose of tobacco leaf intertwined with melted licorice, spring flowers, black cherries, creme de cassis, and blueberries is extraordinary. With great intensity, medium to full body, tremendous richness, softer tannin that its two siblings, and a finish that lasts nearly 60 seconds, it is a sensationally seductive, rich, multilayered Cabernet Sauvignon to drink over the next 15-20 years.

USA, Northern California, Napa Valley: 2016 & 2017 – A Tale of Two Vintages A blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 7% Malbec, 5% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot, the 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain is deep garnet-purple colored and features gregarious crème de cassis, black cherry preserves and baked plums with touches of Indian spices, cigar box and charcuterie. Full, firm and decadently fruited, it has a fantastic foundation and very long, layered and expressive finish.

USA, Northern California, Napa Valley: 2016 & 2017 – A Tale of Two Vintages The 2016 Hartford Court Pinot Noir Seascape Vineyard is pale to medium ruby-purple colored and opens with vibrant cranberries, pomegranate and Bing cherries scents with touches of underbrush, wild sage, red roses and mossy bark with a waft of tilled soil. Medium to full-bodied, the palate packs in the elegant red fruit and earthy layers, finishing on a long, lingering, provocative mineral note.

The 2017s From Sonoma I also loved the 2016 Pinot Noir Arrendell Vineyard. Located in the Russian River and planted in 1975 to a heritage Martini Clone, this cool site struggles to ripen, giving this 2016 an exotic, complex, vibrant style along with its ample red and black fruits, candied violets, potpourri, and sandalwood. It’s one of the more vibrant, racier wines in the lineup, yet its acidity is nicely integrated, it’s flawlessly balanced, and it has a great, great finish. Give bottles a year or two and enjoy over the following decade.

USA, Northern California, Napa Valley: 2016 & 2017 – A Tale of Two Vintages The 2016 Hartford Court Chardonnay Jennifer’s Vineyard displays intense notes of grapefruit, green guava, mango and pineapple with nuances of talc, oyster shells and fresh ginger. The palate is medium-bodied, elegant and super intense with tightly wound layers of citrus and tropical fruits and bags of mineral notions on the epically long finish. This needs time but should emerge from the cellar gloriously in 2-3 years!

USA, Northern California, Napa Valley: 2016 & 2017 – A Tale of Two Vintages A blend of 88.2% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4.4% Petit Verdot, 4.2% Cabernet Franc and 3.2% Merlot, the deep garnet-purple colored 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Sycamore Vineyards comes skipping out of the glass with a spring it its step and singing notes of crushed blackcurrants, fresh blackberries and red and black plums with touches of underbrush, fungi, wild sage, chocolate mint and cigar boxes. Full-bodied and built like a brick house, it has a rock-solid frame of firm, grainy tannins and seamless freshness supporting the generous, crunchy fruit, finishing long with a touch of minerality.

The 2022 Proprietary Red Wine is a blend of 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc, 17% Malbec, 37% Merlot, and 7% Petit Verdot. Deep garnet-purple in color, it comes bounding out with exuberant notes of juicy black cherries, boysenberry preserves, and potpourri, followed by hints of tilled soil and garrigue. The full-bodied palate delivers an impactful backbone of firm, grainy tannins and bold freshness to match the muscular black fruit, finishing long and fragrant.

Retail $35. Super clear, barely any hue at all in the glass. The classic provençal nose of subtle red fruit and white flower. Wonderful on the palate, just a delight. Sure, it’s subtle and reserved but near impeccable balance with lovely fruit and an acidity that persists for days.

This is pale in the glass, fragrant, expressly savoury and built on an energetic tension of fine tannin and vigorous acidity. This has a little more flesh and fruitfulness than the Ovitelli, but it’s neither particularly fleshy nor fruitful. And there’s much charm in that. Red cherry and sour black cherry, dried rose petals, Baharat spicing, pomegranate, clove, mace, dried orange peel and warm concrete, struck rock – it’s one of those wines that I just can’t stop smelling, so beguiling is the perfume. The structure is just as compelling, with insistent sandy, chalky tannins and a seam of electric acidity pulling the flavours long. Utterly individual and absolutely world class.

From original '46 vines next to the High Sands block. The '23 grenache wines are very pale in the glass, and they are all a degree lighter in alcohol due to the cool year (one I love). A vintage like this really illustrates the kinship with the avant-garde grenache of Gredos, and with Barbaresco, and refined Etna Rosso (Girolamo Russo in particular), rather than almost anything from the Rhône. Savoury, dried red fruits, cranberry, cherry and redcurrant, warm terracotta, bergamot, potpourri, sumac, ground cinnamon, star anise, so tightly coiled, but also tensile, finely expansive in its flavour delivery. There’s tension aplenty, and it promises to unfurl over a long life. Superb.

Predominantly from the oldest roussanne planting, a 1ha block, with a small parcel (15%) from younger vines for fragrance. The compression of power is becoming a key feature of what is one of Australia’s finest white wines. It’s refreshing to see the varietal hegemony of the usual suspects being consistently challenged. This, from a celebrated cool year, is at the start of a long and promising journey, somewhat shy, but layered with interest. Green almond, pear, pickled peach, pineapple quince, lemon balm, mint, young sage, oyster shell and a rocky, pumice-like mineral note, which is echoed by the ultrafine pithiness of the palate. It’s another superb release, but it’s one that needs a little time to settle into its long stride.

55/17/17/7/4% grenache blanc/grenache gris/roussanne/clairette/bourboulenc. Some grenache blanc and roussanne was fermented on skins for around seven months (47% of the finished blend). The remaining fruit was basket pressed. Texture. For me, it’s the defining point of this wine. Oh, I love the hard-to-pin-down flavours that drift through orchard fruits and citrus, suggest a piney and briny herbal note – like a sea breeze gliding through a cypress tree – and are further complexed with a hint of cracked fennel seed and white pepper. But it’s the texture that really elevates this, the frisson of pumiceous (it’s a word …) grip and succulent fruit, the sapid, mineral/tonic quality, the elegant tensioning, fine-tuned to perfection. What a delight.

22 was a cool year that produced some reticent but excellent grenache, while shiraz seemed to sail through untroubled. This is an infant, of course, but there’s a ready appeal not always seen at this stage, a meshing of red, blue and black fruits – ripe raspberry, blackberry, blueberry, tart boysenberry, red plum, black olive – with an overlay of baking spices, iodine, coffee grounds and beef bouillon. And iron, yes. It’s on the label. In the ground. In the wine. Here, the wine benefits from that soil transfer being elegant, filigreed, not rugged. It needs a little time to be its best, but it’s a superb release.

51% Cabernet Sauvignon 49% Shiraz. Handpicked, destemmed and fermented separately and basket pressed. 17 days on skins for the Cabernet Sauvignon and matured for 15 months in Bordeaux barriques. 20 days on skins for Shiraz and barrelled down to 1-2 year old seasoned French and Austrian oak puncheons for 8 months with additional 10 months in seasoned foudre. The very finest parcels were selected and bottled. A rigorous winemaking explanation and deservedly as everything is meticulously weighted in both the vineyard and winemaking for Hickinbotham. Two worlds meet here and I’m not talking about Australia and the USA. It’s a wine that evokes both our past and future. Nostalgia is plucked from deep within with the kinship of the two varieties. Rhubarb, mulberry and red figs with an outline of blackberries and thyme. The beauty of the site plays an integral part too, providing depth and intensity of fruit and savoury coffee spice. This is a Claret that pays homage to days of old but made with oak consciousness and poise of tomorrow. The rapport between Cabernet and Shiraz is firmly established here and in drinking it, you’ll find any disagreeable thoughts put to rest, or at least till after you are done enjoying it. A truly beautiful wine. Drink now or in 10-12 years preferably with lamb backstrap with a pepper berry crust.

The outstanding 2022 ‘Walla Walla Valley’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes from the Leonetti Estate as well as the Seven Hills and Skysill Vineyards. Inky in the glass this shows off great depth and concentration. Dense dark fruits parade with tobacco leaf, dried herbs and shades of graphite with great stony essence. Drink 2025-2044

Gorgeous and silky, the 2022 Jett ‘Horse Heaven Hills’ Cabernet Sauvignon comes from the Andrews and Phinny Hill Vineyards. Jet black in the glass, this offers deep, concentrated black Frits that mingle well with blueberry compote, espresso grounds and shades of loamy soils on the palate. This has well-defined power and finesse. Drink 2025-2042-

The 2022 'Red Mountain’ comes from the Quintessence and Shaw Vineyards. Sweet pipe tobacco and anise mark the nos alongside shades of black currant compote. The palate is dense and delicious with serious verve and tension. Very nervy and heady with great concentration and finesse, this really needs about a year of bottle time to settle. Drink 2026-2045

The 2022 Lokoya Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain, all from the Keyes Vineyard, is a massively concentrated, full-bodied effort that delivers a complex array of red, black, and blue fruits alongside iron, foresty notes, and sage nuances. This gorgeous wine boasts tremendous mid-palate depth, ripe tannins, and a remarkable sense of richness while staying balanced and elegant. Aged 22 months in 89% new French oak, it's a powerful, mountain-grown Cabernet that will benefit from 4-5 years of bottle age and evolve gracefully for two decades or more

The 2022 La Jota Merlot W.S. Keyes Vineyard is a brilliant Howell Mountain release that showcases
the power of mountain fruit paired with a notable sense of elegance and finesse. A blend of 80%
Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon aged 22 months in 77% new French oak, this full-bodied wine
delivers a gorgeous array of red plums, dark cherries, dark chocolate, scorched earth, and baking
spices. It's concentrated and rich on the palate, yet maintains a beautifully balanced, focused, and
elegant mouthfeel. There are plenty of tannins here, but they're matched by the wine's
concentration, richness, and texture. This impressive effort from winemaker Chris Carpenter will
benefit from 3-5 years of bottle age and drink beautifully over the following 15 years

‘I make a block 6 or 14 every year. When I'm tasting through the cellar, I feel like I just have to do this bottling,’ says winemaker Shane Moore. Elevage is 18 months in oak, with forest-borne
notes of fir tips and pine sap, blood orange, wild violets, and penny royal mint. The brilliance of this wine is splendid; it's the last pick each year at Zena Crown, and it retains an astonishing freshness. Fresh fruits show Classically Oregon, with taut pomegranate pulp and purity. It is a
gorgeous wine with blood orange and candied raspberries.

A specific block towards the bottom of the site of Dijon 76 clone Chardonnay makes this wine. ‘There's something about this block that just turns the Chardonnay to 11 for me; I think it's those clay soils,’ says Shane Moore, Gran Moraine winemaker. This wine releases in January 2026. I strive to put this wine on the edge of reduction, which builds for the first five to seven years and then starts to come back around. The aromatics are border opulence, with honeyed peaches,
concentrated Meyer lemon pulp, and a sweet note of candied orange. Gorgeous and flinty across the palate, with layers of stony, complex mineral edges that frame the core of citrus
cream nicely. A stunning lemon tang to the finish with salted lemon that lingers seemingly forever on the tongue

Two south-facing blocks at 500 feet on a very steep slope, 115 and 667, make up the Cascade. Performing the fermentation on the open top manages the tannins, which winemaker Shane Moore says can be an issue in this block. With soaring red and blue berries, this wine wows in the aromatics, a note of Oregon truffle and a gorgeous forest-driven depth. The palate offers fleshy blue fruits while singing with an elegance that balances the beauty of the fruit with a definitive power to boot: violets, sweet Oregon blackberries and a dollop of freshly chopped mint. Performing the fermentation on the open top manages the tannins, which winemaker Shane
Moore says can be an issue in this block. With soaring red and blue berries, this wine wows in
the aromatics, a note of Oregon truffle and a gorgeous forest-driven depth. The palate offers
fleshy blue fruits while singing with an elegance that balances the beauty of the fruit with a
definitive power to boot: violets, sweet Oregon blackberries and a dollop of freshly chopped
mint.

A beautifully layered and complex wine that wraps generous tannins around lovely black fruit and subtle, smoky, graphite nuances. Blueberries and blackcurrants with hints of minerals and cocoa. Full-bodied, complex and structured for further aging. Drinkable now, but best from 2030.