A focused, sharp line of citrus flavours and aromas is driven by clean, crisp acidity, with tightly wound lemon and sharp green apple notes propelled by measured power. The Chardonnay I10V1 vine clones from this steep, 280m-high site demand different treatment – no malolactic fermentation, no battonage of lees during fermentation in mostly older French oak barrels, then nine months’ maturation. This is just enough to add a savory rim and a hint of roasted hazelnut to the smooth palate line, without intruding on a clean, crisp finish. It’s clean, confident and assured.

Lastly, the 2022 Chardonnay 3D comes from a sandy, 10-acre vineyard in the Sta. Rita Hills and was brought up all in neutral oak. Its medium gold hue is followed by a ripe, exotic perfume of honeyed stone fruits, orange blossom, chalk, flower oil, and brioche-like nuances. This beauty is medium to full-bodied, concentrated, and incredibly textured on the palate, with nicely integrated acidity, terrific mid-palate depth, and a finish that won't quit. Don't miss this beauty. 752 cases.

52/48% cabernet sauvignon/shiraz from 1971 contour-planted vines; cabernet matured for 15 months in Bordeaux barriques, the shiraz in one- to two-year-old French and Austrian puncheons for eight months, then 10 months in a French oak foudre. The classic Australian blend rendered by the twin powers of winemakers Peter Fraser and Chris Carpenter, with shiraz and cabernet respectively. Named after John Peake, who established the first vineyard in Clarendon, and is also fittingly the peak of the range. The melding of the two varieties here is superb, a seamless intertwining, with shiraz gently flexing and cabernet calmly tensioning. A sophisticated note of oak seasons with ground coffee, clove and allspice over black and blue fruits, the wine building impressively with air. Excellent.

Very floral and bright with strawberries and flowers on the nose. Intense. Medium-bodied, very transparent, and brilliant with a ruby stone sort of beauty. Very citrusy. Interesting ripe watermelon undertone to it. Drink or hold.

A single-block shiraz; 60% whole cluster co-fermented with 2% viognier and matured mainly in puncheons together with one large foudre. A medium, bright, crimson purple. The first Tarraford syrah since '18, this promptly won the Trophy for Best Syrah at last year's Yarra Valley Wine Show. Aromas of dark cherries, blueberries and graphite, with the viognier adding some exotic allspice and incense notes. Concentrated, tightly focused and beautifully balanced. Impressively long on the floral-infused finish. Super wine.

From the Sexton vineyard in Gruyere; 10% whole bunches and matured nine months in French barriques (25% new). A deep ruby. Aromas of kirsch, damson plums, licorice root and spices; this heady, concentrated wine has a lot of meat on the bones, with ripe, persistent tannins boding well for the future. A great contrast to the more delicate Giant Steps wines such as Bastard Hill and Primavera.

Made with 20% whole bunches. All D clones. Matured in barriques (20% new). A light, very bright crimson. Smells like a rose garden with a little lavender thrown in! You'll also find aromas of sour cherries and blood oranges. Poised, elegant and persistent, this flows mellifluously across the palate. A classic Upper Yarra pinot, driven as much by its fine vein of acidity as its silken tannins.

Made from a 50/50% blend of Gingin and Bernard clones planted between 100 and 200m in Gruyere. Whole-bunch pressed to French puncheons (25% new oak) with 15% mlf. Right now, this is the most salivating and seductive of Giant Step's superb array of single-vineyard chardonnays from '23. Perfectly ripened white peach, pear and some marine scents lead onto the palate, which is gently textured, saline and structured. The finish is energetic, nutty and long.

Since his start in the 1990s, Greg Brewer charted his own path in Pinot Noir, and the results are stunningly consistent, distinctive and addictively delicious. This bottling begins with aromas that recall eating raspberry sorbet surrounded by chaparral on the seashore. The palate continues that explosive red-fruit-meets-refreshing mint formula into an exciting finish

Enchanting aromas of golden apples, fresh pears and a hint of tropical mango led to a palate bursting with lively lemon and quince. A touch of vanilla oak complements the long and elegantly creamy finish. "

A blend of fruit from the family-owned Rhyolite Ridge Vineyard and Wallis Vineyard, Lokoya's 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain combines black cherries and cassis with bay leaf and sage. Full-bodied and supple, with some blueberry shadings on the mid-palate, this is generous, but it still has an underlying mountain structure and a long, dusty but mouthwatering finish.

Sourced solely from the Jackson-owned W.S. Keyes Vineyard at approximately 1,800 feet above sea level, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain features hints of mint, cedar and pine against a backdrop of blackberry and blueberry fruit. This is full-bodied, rich and concentrated, with a long, velvety and mocha-tinged finish. The tannins are broader and plusher here than in the Lokoya wines from the other mountains.

The 2021 Cardinale is a blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon from nine different AVAs, plus 9% Merlot from the Jackson Family's Keyes Vineyard on Howell Mountain. Scents of black cherries, cassis, graphite and crushed stone appear on the nose, while the full-bodied palate is rich, generous, concentrated and expansive, then tightens up and becomes more classically structured and dusty on the lingering, mouthwatering finish.

From volcanic soils at 2400 feet elevation, above the fog layer, the 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Christopher's Vineyard sports a youthful purple/black color and is aromatic with notes of black licorice, sweet tobacco, blackberry preserve, and forest floor. Fullbodied, it expands through the palate, with ripe, sweet tannins and a long, balanced, even finish. This powerful wine has a lot of elegance and never feels heavy. It’s a fantastic expression of Cabernet Sauvignon from Sonoma. Drink 2025-2045.

Last (but certainly not least) in the wide range of Pinot Noirs from Hartford Court, the 2022 Pinot Noir Arrendell Vineyard is from a site planted in 1975 with the heritage Martini clone, in one of the coolest and lowest yielding sites of the Russian River Valley. The oldest vines they have, the grapes in this vineyard struggle to ripen and are often harvested by Hartford Court well into October. The 2022 was aged for 14 months in 34% new French oak barrels and pours a youthful ruby red hue. On opening, it’s layered with aromas of cherry liqueur, cola spice, leather, toasted cedar, and incense. It reveals a good deal of complexity and has a weightless feel with a velvety texture, sweet tannins, and a clean, long finish with lasting notes of tea leaf. This highly impressive offering is going to show its best over the next 15 years.

A rich and opulent shiraz which has been made without the addition of pressings. It’s an approach to retain the life and effortlessness of the fruit while losing nothing in fruit power and intensity. Has slightly more oak than others yet the fruit intensity and concentration laps it up with ease. Grainy minerally mouth feel of perfect balance.

Destemmed, crushed and fermented in 1800L ‘cocciopesto’ (or opus signinum – a Roman ‘concrete’ that was used in bathhouses, cisterns and aqueducts) amphorae, with about 150 days on skins before pressing and returning, with 15 months' total time. Compared to the Ovitelli, this often shows a little more forward fruit and textural flex. In a year like 2022, where tannins and savouriness are turned up, that brighter pop gives this an earlier appeal, though it is no less equipped with mouth puckering grip and zippy acidity. Raspberry, pomegranate, redcurrant, rosehip, musk, anise, dried orange peel, the fruit impeccably framed on the nose, and bound by an intricate net of fine sandy tannin on the palate carrying incredibly long. It’s an exceptional release.

All fermented in 675L ceramic eggs, 52% of final blend on skins for 120 days, the remainder whole-bunch pressed, a further four months in egg after blending. The power of this release is somewhat of a statement, as is the synchronised harmony of fruit and structure. Power is not to be mistaken for heft, but rather a certain density of matter, an intensity of flavour that Is inextricably locked with a commanding drive of skin tannins and subtle but purposeful acidity. Spiced pear, dried lime, green almond, grippy heirloom apple, dried mint … flavour descriptors are inevitably clumsy, such is the individuality of expression. It’s even better on day two, promising a very bright future. It’s world-class stuf

Predominantly grenache blanc and roussanne with additions of grenache gris, bourboulenc and clairette. All varieties were fermented in ceramic eggs and matured after blending for 4 months. 59% of the final blend was skin contact. Pomelo segments, white nectarine and cucumber jelly. Almond syrup, halva and soft coconut flesh. Poached pear, frangipani and jonquil. A lick of salt spray salinity and white tea tannins. Remarkable how these varieties manifest into such purity. This wine reminds me of Mexican limestone cenotes. It's seemingly endless with crystal clear clarity and definition. Lemon zest unfurls on the finish. A suburb wine that attracts your attention and then captivates you in a beguiling stare. More wines like this, please, now and forever. Drink now with sliced pearl meat.

Winemaker Chris Carpenter used native yeasts to produce a robust wine with a compact black-fruited profile, deep concentration and extremely powerful, fine-grained tannins. It shows the ripe, pure-fruit richness of the 2022 vintage balanced by the tension of higher-elevation, mountain-grown grapes.

‘There is so much diversity within Tasmania,’ says Melanie. Coal River is down south near Hobart, in a rain shadow from the west coast. It’s a dry, cold landscape. Three tributary valleys flow down into one central valley, and the best sites are on the east faces of these slopes, away from the frosty floors. They have been buying grapes from the Nocton vineyard since 2016. Supple, fine, elegant and pure with delicate red cherry and wild strawberry fruit. Such purity, balance and elegance with concentration but also finesse. Exotic but also elegant.

The single-varietal 2021 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, all from the estate-owned Keyes Vineyard, is deep garnet-purple in color. Quite closed to start, it requires a fair bit of swirling to bring out notes of blackcurrant jelly, plum preserves, and cedar chest giving way to hints of crushed rocks, charcoal, black olives, and anise. The full-bodied palate delivers concentrated black fruit layers with earthy accents and a firm, grainy texture, finishing with a refreshing lift and impressive length.

The single-varietal 2021 Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon is all estate grown, coming from two different vineyards. Deep garnet-purple in color, it bursts with bold notes of baked plums, creme de cassis, and blackberry pie followed by nuances of menthol, cedar chest, and Chinese five spice with a hint of iron ore. The full-bodied palate is chock full of bright, black berry and earthy layers, supported by grainy tannins and plenty of freshness, finishing long and savory.

The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon has 6.5% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec, 4% Merlot, and 2.5% Petit Verdot in the blend. Deep garnet-purple in color, it needs a lot of shaking to wake up scents of blackcurrant preserves, plum pudding, and mulberries giving way to a fragrant undercurrent of licorice, charcoal, violets, and menthol. The big, rich, full-bodied palate is completely packed with black fruit layers supported by very firm yet ripe grainy tannins and seamless freshness, finishing long with a spicy kick.

The 2021 Red Wine is a blend of 54% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, 13% Petit Verdot, and 7% Malbec. Deep garnet-purple in color, it rolls out with notes of juicy black and red plums, fresh blueberries, and cedar chest leading to hints of violets, aniseed, and underbrush. The full-bodied palate is big, rounded, and plush, with expressive black and blue fruit layers and a long pepper-laced finish.