The 2021 Koplandsteen Chenin Blanc, from 35-year-old dryland bush vines planted on shale, offers a waxier texture than its sibling. This wine stands out with more weight and enhanced mineral tension. It displays less dusty florals but more spiced citrus, creating a vivid and dynamic profile. Medium to full-bodied, the wine provides firm phenolic bitterness complemented by a kiss of tannins that will pair effortlessly with a wide array of dishes. Only 1,850 bottles were produced.

Aurora Point is a stunning expression of Sauvignon Blanc made with grapes from their high elevation vineyards. It has aromas of tangerine, kumquat, and lemon blossom, exciting acidity and a long, elegant finish punctuated by flavors of grapefruit, passionfruit, and candied orange peel.

This is the first time that this is majority Cabernet with recent replanting, the aim being to adapt the vineyard to global climate change; it’s also the first vintage as a Grand Cru Classé. Violet, crushed rose petals and blood orange intermingle with the dark berry and stone fruits. Green peppercorns bring their own freshness. The florality is revealed slowly and progressively. In the mouth this is both fluid and crystalline, more delicate than it used to be. It is both mineral and spicy on the finish, with the salinity of black liquorice. Very clean and linear on the finish after the amplitude, opulence and richness of the attack and mid-palate. Nicely chiselled by the calcaire tannins. Very beautiful, showing nice restraint and glorious in its floral Cabernet fruit – one sees the future of the appellation here. And we have something resembling the tannic quality of Vérité itself. Lifted and elegant. 

La Crema makes wines from multiple appellations, so check the label carefully. This wellpriced versatile Monterey Chardonnay is a crowd-pleaser because it combines a touch of creamy buttery flavors with green apple ones. It is soft enough to savor a glass before a meal and has enough verve to accompany a roast chicken. In keeping with current trend of lighter California Chardonnay, it weighs in under 14% alcohol.

A salted caramel note and a hint of flint up front give way to complex and lush flavors of ripe melon, peach and mango. Whiffs of cognac and toasted, buttery brioche create wonderful complexity on the long, seamless finish. Drink now. 1,400 cases made.

High Sands is always a landmark wine, a site-reflective icon of peerless husbandry and elaboration, but it can be imposing, needing time and reflection. This is different, though, finely tuned, lucid, silky and sophisticated, and feeling even more expressive of place. A great, cool vintage, yes, with both depth and levity, but Pete Fraser’s quarter turns of the screw are also palpable. Fruits are red and black, ripe but with some tart wild tension, dusted in heady Baharat spicing, the heartbeat of old-vine power pulsing insistently within. Flavour descriptors feel ineffectual, though. It’s the sheer graceful power of the thing that’s so beguiling, as it noiselessly swoops in, catching you in the updraft of its immense wingspan. By any measure, this is a great wine.

Destemmed, crushed and fermented in 1800L ‘cocciopesto’ (or opus signinum – a Roman ‘concrete’ that was used in bathhouses, cisterns and aqueducts) amphorae, with about 150 days on skins before pressing and returning, with 15 months' total time. Compared to the Ovitelli, this often shows a little more forward fruit and textural flex. In a year like 2022, where tannins and savouriness are turned up, that brighter pop gives this an earlier appeal, though it is no less equipped with mouth puckering grip and zippy acidity. Raspberry, pomegranate, redcurrant, rosehip, musk, anise, dried orange peel, the fruit impeccably framed on the nose, and bound by an intricate net of fine sandy tannin on the palate carrying incredibly long. It’s an exceptional release.

All fermented in 675L ceramic eggs, 52% of final blend on skins for 120 days, the remainder whole-bunch pressed, a further four months in egg after blending. The power of this release is somewhat of a statement, as is the synchronised harmony of fruit and structure. Power is not to be mistaken for heft, but rather a certain density of matter, an intensity of flavour that Is inextricably locked with a commanding drive of skin tannins and subtle but purposeful acidity. Spiced pear, dried lime, green almond, grippy heirloom apple, dried mint … flavour descriptors are inevitably clumsy, such is the individuality of expression. It’s even better on day two, promising a very bright future. It’s world-class stuf

Fermented with 25% whole bunches; matured in French puncheons for seven months (35% new), then transferred to Austrian and French foudre for 12 months. The sandy ironstone soil is the key driver here, with a lilting fragrance combined with rocky ferrous notes, blackberry, blueberry, tar, tapenade, anise, iodine and a briary herbal complexity. Oak is well integrated, though more time is needed to cohere in general, as this is fashioned to age, and it will do so impressively

From 1946-planted vines in Block 30, adjacent to the High Sands Block; destemmed, crushed and fermented in 675L ceramic eggs; pressed after about 150 days then returned to the eggs for a total of 14 months' maturation. Taut and sinewy, both a function of making and the year that was, this is a coiled spring of dried flowers, cranberry, raspberry leaf tea, cherry, pomegranate and dusty white pepper spicing. The pedigree of place, venerable vines, impeccable viticultural stewardship and fine-tuned making suggest this will have a long and exciting future, but it needs a few years to unlock all its mysteries. As it stands, it is a thrilling bottle, if a little stern at present. I have a feeling the score may tick up with time.

A blend of 58/24/8/5/5% grenache blanc/roussanne/ grenache gris/bourboulenc/clairette. Some grenache and clairette on skins in concrete eggs for 120 days, the remainder whole-bunch pressed to egg; 59% skin contact in the final blend. Organic/biodynamic. The skin contact provides meaningful detail to this, but in a quiet way, gently tugging the palate with a pumice-like texture, shaving off overt fruitfulness and layering in savoury flavour. Dried pear, poached apple, quince, ground ginger, beeswax, lemon barely water and chamomile. It’ll be fascinating to watch this age, no doubt picking up honeyed tones, while that bedrock of artfully laid grape tannin will provide a moreish succulence for many years.

From Block 12 on a southeast-facing sandy ironstone outcrop; 15% whole bunches, the rest crushed; matured in French and Austrian foudre for 18 months. A very Rhône-like release this, with peppery spicing, blackberry pastille, moody blue florals, lavender, blueberry, cocoa powder and freshly ground star anise. The elegance here is admirable, with a tannin drive from front to back, and no sweet spot. A very fine release.

La Crema continues to elevate its Monterey Pinot Noir by doing a diligent job of expressing the character of its AVAs. 2022 has just the right amount of sweet strawberry to counterbalance the red florals and cool, red plum-rhubarb on the mid-palate. It was a wet spring and a regular growing season before a warm fall culminated in slightly lower yields. It aged eight months in new and used French oak barrels. Ready to drink and an excellent match for a sweet soya poke, salmon steaks, or duck pizza.

This Pinot Noir comes from coastal California vineyards, including Arroyo Seco, Santa Maria Valley, and Monterey. The cooler sites help the acidity levels that keep the wine fresh. It’s aged eight months in French and American oak (only four per cent is new), adding some vanilla but mostly helping to expand the soft, round, earthy, cran-cherry fruit with a dash of spice. Ready to drink with simple foods, like a pulled pork sandwich. The fruit is 47 per cent Sonoma coast, 44 per cent central coast, and 9 per cent Mendocino County.

boasts pineapple, tangerine and tropical fruit with a lush, rich palate. Notes of candied lime and vanilla bean create an appealing and long, lingering finish with an overlaying touch of salinity and minerality.

fruit-forward, versatile wine that offers fresh aromas of bright red cherry, pomegranate and red currant with hints of exotic spices, dark chocolate and baking spices. Subtle flavors of blueberry, caramel and cedar finish with rich, supple tannins.

Winemaker Chris Carpenter used native yeasts to produce a robust wine with a compact black-fruited profile, deep concentration and extremely powerful, fine-grained tannins. It shows the ripe, pure-fruit richness of the 2022 vintage balanced by the tension of higher-elevation, mountain-grown grapes.

Aromas of lemon peel, wet stone, waxy apple and a hint of chalk show on the nose of this bottling. The palate is very chalky in texture, giving a firm platform to present flavors of buttered nectarine, sea salt and coconut flake.

This wine is rich and concentrated with plush black plum, raspberry and cinnamon. The wine is driven by juicy red plum, pink grapefruit zest, pink peppercorn weaving in quince; black tea brings dark chocolate and a silky finish. The sunshine and cool climate of the region are captured by this wine.

This wine is lush and vibrant, with aromas of huckleberry, boysenberry and cardamon. The wine is full-bodied with black cherry, violet, allspice, weaving in vanilla cream and dark chocolate to lead up to plush silky tannins. Long ago, I created a story about this wine and the mythical sisters who lived in the forest. Enjoy with meat, poultry, fish and good friends.

This wine is intense, with aromas of black cherry, boysenberry and allspice. Concentrated Morello cherry, black currant weave into blackberry, vanilla spice, mocha and lush tannins. Aerate and enjoy with braised lamb shank. 

This stunning wine leaps out of the glass, with concentrated flavors and aromas of white peach, quince and pineapple, plus floral accents of orange blossoms and lemon curd. Finishes with mouthwatering acidity, a note of crunchy sea salt minerality and a whiff of lemon verbena. Drink now.