‘There is so much diversity within Tasmania,’ says Melanie. Coal River is down south near Hobart, in a rain shadow from the west coast. It’s a dry, cold landscape. Three tributary valleys flow down into one central valley, and the best sites are on the east faces of these slopes, away from the frosty floors. They have been buying grapes from the Nocton vineyard since 2016. Supple, fine, elegant and pure with delicate red cherry and wild strawberry fruit. Such purity, balance and elegance with concentration but also finesse. Exotic but also elegant.

From an 800 m vineyard with grey soils. Clones Abel, MV6, Pommard, 114, 115. There’s a lovely purity of fruit here: raspberry and strawberry with nice spicy notes. There’s a richness and silkiness but also some nice tannin. Lovely fruit presence with really fine structure, as well as hints of beetroot and plum, and fine pepper notes. Stays elegant but has ageing potential.

This is in the upper Yarra, which is more sparsely planted, and is a sloping vineyard. Planted with a sparkling clone. Giant Steps are working on the canopy structure here trying to shelter the fruit, because they don’t like sunny skins on Chardonnay. It’s a 13 hectare vineyard with 2 hectares of Chardonnay. Restrained on the nose with hazelnut and almond, as well as some apple skin, some mealy hints, and delicate lemon. Linear and focused on the palate with good fruit, nice freshness and a sort of tension.

This is the home vineyard, planted in 1997, and it’s a 30 hectare site with 12 hectares of Chardonnay. Because of Phil Sexton’s connection to Margaret River he wanted to plant gin gin clone, but Melanie thinks that there’s a lot of Mendoza clone, which is quite similar, as well as some true gin gin. There’s also some of the Bernard clones, too. There are lots of different aspects to this site. This shows lovely texture and intensity. Mineral and taut with lemony notes and some subtle ginger and pear. Nice saltiness here and a touch of structure. Lovely detail and precision.

This is from 300 m, in the upper Yarra. Primavera is red volcanic basalt, quite a rare soil type in the Yarra, found in seams. 60 million years old, this is fertile and well draining soil, which gives the vines an easier life. One block is MV6 and the other is 115 and G8. Supple, elegant and fine with fine red cherry and redcurrant fruit. Fine, pure and delicate with lovely purity and finesse. Notes of pomegranate and cranberry. Has a sense of delicacy.

This is the most northerly and lowest elevation vineyard, and although it should be the warmest because of this, it isn’t. It’s a small vineyard planted to P58 clone and leased from the Long family. Hand picked, whole bunch pressed after cooling, using the a gentle cycle. The pristine juice goes to barrel (all 500 litres, 10% new) with full solids and is handled oxidatively. Wild ferment. Taut and linear with subtle mealy notes. Mineral and finely spiced with layered citrus and white peach fruit. Fine, delicate with lovely freshness and precision. Fine spices on the finish.

This is very linear and compact with lush fruit, but the tannins and acidity frame it so nicely. It's medium-bodied with excellent length and energy. The finish is really fine. 50% cabernet franc, 43% merlot and 7% cabernet sauvignon. Better than 2022.

Capensis is a South African project lovingly fostered by Barbara Banke, chairman and proprietor of Jackson Family Wines. She often takes a hands-on role in the development of JFW estates and together with winemaker Graham Weerts, a Cape Town native, and vineyard manager Cedrick Delport, the Capensis team makes stunning South African Western Cape Chardonnay. Grapes are sourced from five vineyards to give complexity and balance to the finished wine. It has aromas of lemon pith, toasted almond, and baked pear with great minerality upon entry leading to flavors of jasmine, toasted brioche, and white peach. Drink now through 2028.

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec.
Deep ruby with a hint of purple. Blackberry and bramble nose with a twist of pepper. Supple tannin. Acidity feels a bit linear and disjointed compared with the plush fruit. (SCJ) Drink 2024 – 2035

Deep purple in colour. Macerated blueberries and blackberries with a touch of leather and iodine. Chewy tannin and tingly acidity with a lingering finish. (SCJ) Drink 2020 – 2030

Deep ruby with a garnet rim. Concentrated, dried black cherry and leather polish on the nose. Dense extract, fresh acidity, fine tannin and a lengthy finish. (SCJ) Drink 2018 – 2030

Medium purple in colour. Resinous thyme, cassis and blackberry on the nose. Soft supple tannin with striking, linear acidity that's not quite in line with the rest of the wine. (SCJ) Drink 2024 – 2035

Medium ruby with a touch of garnet. Stewed sweet tomatoes, ripe red cherries and supple leather. The tannins are soft and round and there's just enough acid left to balance out the sweet fruit. I wouldn't wait any longer to drink it. (SCJ) Drink 2015 – 2024

Deep purple in colour. Chocolate cherry with salt and iodine. Tannin is still very chewy. A huge wine – especially considering the age. Acidity is still fresh and vibrant. (SCJ) Drink 2018 – 2028

Deep purple in colour. Glossy and plush with chocolate cherry and blueberry jam. High acidity and soft tannins. (SCJ) Drink 2024 – 2035

Magnum. Deep ruby with a hint of garnet. Leather, bramble and black cherry with high tingling acidity and drying tannin. Lengthy and still quite fresh. (SCJ) Drink 2018 – 2030

Medium lemon with a hint of green. Chalky and flinty on the nose with light vanilla and lemon-blossom floral notes. Creamy palate with ripe yellow apple and pear complimented by dairy, crème fraiche notes. Fresh acidity drives the long finish. (SCJ) Drink 2024 – 2028

The Julia's Vineyard rosé from Cambria Estate Winery is a lovely example of a Central California rosé. The vineyard's soils include a mix of limestone, shale, and sandstone, which lend a mineral note to the wine. Meanwhile, Santa Barbara sunshine ensures the fruit's even ripening and makes for a full-bodied flavor. The hand-selected pinot noir grapes are whole cluster pressed and fermented in stainless steel, ensuring the grape's freshness is at the forefront. While not as complete as the rosé at the top of they list, the 13.1% ABV wine's clean, fruity flavors earn it a midpoint spot in the ranking.

19. Hartford Family Winery's rosé has a delicate style with a subdued flavor profile, especially compared to some of the other pinot noir rosé wines in the ranking. It boasts a blushing salmon color and soft aromas of white peach and melon. The 13.5% ABV wine offers a fresh and clean fruitiness on the palate, with subtle stone fruit and strawberry notes. The light nature of the rosé makes it a great option if you are mixing drinks with wine, like in a charred peach sangria. However, I prefer a wine with more distinctiveness for sipping solo, which keeps this brand from climbing any higher on my list.

22. Oregon's Willamette Valley is an international leader in pinot noir production. Its WillaKenzie Estate, named after the area's loamy soils, has showcased the variety since its inception. WillaKenzie's Willamette Valley rosé is whole cluster pressed and extracts minimal color, creating a delicate blush wine with flavors of bitter orange peel, ripe cherry, and peach. Though the front palate exudes ripe fruit and fresh acidity, the 13.5% ABV wine finishes with a tart, unbalanced bitterness, earning it a lower ranking.

Impressively intricate but still harmonious in overall character, this is a fine example of a trend toward increasing complexity in Sauvignon Blanc from California. Multiple clones of and vessels for fermentation and aging plus a 3% dash of Semillon result in an interesting mix of aromas and flavors recalling pears, melons, and citrus fruits, with aromatic suggestions of dried herbs and wildflowers. – M.F

La Crema Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2021: Fresh, clean with attractive layers of quality fruit. Lighter version of California pinot noir style. $27

Of course, then there’s Pinot Noir. Undoubtedly the most discussed and romanticized of the Pinots, revered by wine lovers and collectors around the world. California is one wine region noted for producing top Pinot Noirs, typically from cooler vineyard pockets in the state. For example, the grapes for this La Crema Pinot Noir are grown in the coastal Monterey appellation. It’s plush, fruit forward, and eminently sippable with abundant notes of berries, earth, and black pepper. With a balanced and polished finish, this Pinot Noir makes an easy pairing partner — everything from pizza to burgers, beef rice noodles to roast chicken. Bottom line: B+, Lip-smacking Pinot.

Elegant, with lemon sorbet, Fuji apple, pomelo and tangerine flavors that are vibrant and aromatic, lingering with a drizzle of wildflower honey, a note of candied ginger and a touch of salted butter shortbread. Drink now. 15,500 cases made.

Again from a cooler spot in the state -- the Santa Maria Valley on the Central Coast just off the moderating Pacific. It has a profile of cherry tart with fresh minerality, the ideal pairing for the mushroom risotto we had mid-week.