…tastes like a fabulous northern Rhone. Blackberry liqueur infused with smoke jumps from the glass of this stupendous Zinfandel. Explosive in the mouth, with huge extract levels, fruit, and glycerin, but no heaviness or heat, this is a full-throttle, opulently-textured, hedonistic offering to drink over the next 5-6 years.

Very ripe and a touch jammy, with spicy cherry, licorice, cedar, sage and wild berry turning smooth and polished.

An earthy, gamy, briery, bramble-like perfume jumps from the glass of this medium ruby-colored, luscious, decadently rich effort.

Both powerful and supple, with melt-in-your-mouth blackberry flavors accented by chocolate, cinnamon-type spice, and the merest whiff of vanilla this Zinfandel is made for any food enhanced by barbecue sauce or simply good grilled char flavor. It manages to be dense and rich but not heavy, and it will make Zin lovers purr with happiness.

Concentrated, bright and focused fruit flavors feel shaped by a moderate oak influence in this full-bodied and nicely structured wine. A good amount of tannin wraps the raspberry and blackberry flavors in a firm texture.

Marginally the biggest, boldest and best filled of the Edmeades Zin trio, this one from Perli Vineyards holds true to the winery's rather lavish ways with the grape, yet, for all of its ripeness, its considerable substance and weight, its dominant and continuous message is one of oak-sweetened blackberries. It is not without an uptick of heat at the finish, and it sports plenty of fairly grippy structural tannins that prescribe three or four years of cellaring, but, in the end, it is unwavering fruit that earns it the nod as the favored child of its family.

Vivid flavors and an unusually firm texture make this a bold, structured and noteworthy wine with good potential for mid-term aging. It is dry, has pure raspberry and blackberry on the palate, fine-grained tannins for grip and a lingering finish.

Juicy raspberry and cherry fruit; silky and bright with tangy acidity and long, fresh finish.

My favorite of this trio is the 2010 Zinfandel Perli Vineyards, from a high elevation site in the Mendocino Ridge AVA. Composed of 98% Zinfandel and 2% Merlot that was aged in 40% new oak, it reveals a deep ruby/purple color as well as a big, sweet bouquet of black raspberry fruit intermixed with incense, camphor and roasted herb characteristics. Spicy, rich and full-bodied, this gorgeous Zinfandel can be drunk now and over the next 3-4 years.

A rich, sumptuous perfume of blueberries, mountain flowers, and briery fruit is followed by perfume a focused, glycerin as well as fruit-filled Zinfandel that should drink well for 5-6 years.

Edmeades pioneered the Anderson Valley, one of California's northernmost AVAs in the mid-'60s. Another huge, dense and structured Mendocino Zin hitting 15.5 percent alcohol and loaded with tannin. Lifted spicy, almost peppery nose with leather, chocolate and ripe blackberry fruit.

Another stunning offering is Edmeades' 2001 Zinfandel Ciapusci Vineyard. A perfume of plums, figs, earth, black cherries, raspberries, smoke, dried herbs, spice box, and pine forest is followed by layered, fat, fleshy, full-bodied, in-your-face Zinfandel that manages to retain good freshness and vigor in spite of its weight and concentration.

The 2000 Zinfandel Eaglepoint Vineyard is a sensational effort. Its 16.4% alcohol is well-hidden by copious quantities of black raspberry and cherry fruit, and notions of spice, pepper, minerals, and smoke. Full-bodied and lush...

Another whopper from one of Van Williamson's favorite vineyards is the 2000 Zinfandel Piffero Vineyard. It possesses loads of berry fruit, good freshness and vibrancy, and a dense, full-bodied, monstrous personality. Long, deep, and appealing...

Starts off with pretty hazelnut aromas, then kicks in with an elegant blend of citrus, pear, apple and peach flavors. The finish is long, with more fruit and minerals framed in toasty oak.

Effusively aromatic with succulent smells of ripe apples overlain with lots of sweet and creamy oak, this rich, big-bodied young wine lives up to billing in the mouth with broad, almost pulpy flavors that are long on juicy fruit. Sweet, creamy and colored by a hint of blossoms, the wine shades just slightly to softness in balance and comes up a winner among near-term contenders. A thoroughly enjoyable Chardonnay, it becomes even easier to like when its altogether inviting price is considered.

The 2016 Chardonnay Santos Road is pliant, open-knit and absolutely delicious, which makes it the ideal wine with which to explore this range. This is another hugely appealing wine from Diatom and the most accessible of the wines today.

The 2016 Chardonnay Machado has a nose of fresh pears, Sichuan pepper, oyster shells and brine with hints of baking bread and aniseed. Medium to full-bodied, it has a lovely intensity of mineral and spice flavors finishing with great persistence on a savory note. 170 cases were made.

The 2016 Chardonnay Hilliard Bruce has a delicate nose of lemon curd, fresh apples and crushed stones with hints of chalk dust and white pepper. Medium-bodied, fresh, clean and youthful, it has a racy backbone of freshness and a long mineral finish. 210 cases were made.

Deep copper color. So many melons on the nose (watermelon and cantaloupe), white peach, it’s floral but not too perfumed; there’s a lovely blend of roses, wildflowers and hay, like a breezy open field. Plush texture yet vibrant acid on the palate, juicy, tangy fruit (red apple, watermelon, red cherry). I get complex notes of herbs, earth, dried flower petals, and there’s a mineral undertone that’s really attractive. Delicious yet subtle, this rose really stood out. Blended from five parcels in estate vineyards in Mendocino.

Pale rosy pink, this crisp and lively wine offers flavors of strawberries and other red fruits. It is both light and satisfying, nicely balanced, and food-friendly. Tous Ensemble -- “all together” -- seems an appropriate rallying cry for gathering friends together to enjoy this perfect warm weather energizer.

Exploring The Best New Releases from Sonoma and Beyond The 2017 Pinot Noir Abel presents a vibrant, floral expression of Anderson Valley. Sweet red cherry, blood orange, chalk and white pepper give the Abel striking lovely lift and energy, with bright acids that add energy and vibrancy throughout.

From the Ohlson Vineyard, the 2016 Pinot Noir Sealift has a perfumed raspberry, violet, red plums, and spring flower-laced bouquet. With medium-bodied, richness, a slightly deeper, richer style, bright acidity, and a clean, pure profile, it will benefit from short-term cellaring and should age gracefully. This cuvée comes all from the Ohlson Vineyard on the Sonoma Coast and was brought up in 18% new French oak.

The 2014 Pinot Noir Les Voisins is quite a bit more delicate and floral than the 2013 tasted alongside it. The flavors lean towards the redder end of the spectrum in this gracious, Pinot Noir from Copain. There is good depth in the glass, but the 2014 is a wine built on understatement. The higher yields of the year are evident. Even so, the 2014 is very pretty.

The 2013 Pinot Noir Les Voisins is deep, pliant and super-expressive. Dark cherry, lavender, cloves and licorice are beautifully delineated. In 2013, the flavors are dark, intense and utterly beguiling. All the elements simply fall into place effortlessly.