South Australia: Part Two — Mostly McLaren Vale I'm afraid this is one of those wines that sounds cooler than it tastes. The 2016 Roux Beaute Roussanne is made in ceramic eggs, 60% had 137 days of skin contact, the other 40% was made traditionally. So, what's the issue? It tastes disappointingly normal. There are pretty pineapple aromas, hints of black tea and citrus, a medium-bodied palate with surprisingly little phenolic grip, and a pleasant, lingering finish. As long as you don't go in expecting something orange, phenolic and funky, you'll be pleased.
It's fairly rare to see Roussanne in Australia and even rarer to see it as a stand-alone wine. But if there's anyone Down Under who understands Rhône whites, it's winemaker Pete Fraser. His version is medium to pale gold in color and sings a subtle tune of apple and stone fruit harmonized with ginger, white spice and a savory, salty trill. Texturally it's both slippery and chalky, spicy and fruity, with a salty finish.
The 2016 Roussanne opens with fragrant white peach, orange blossom and allspice notes with touches of baking bread and honeycomb. The light to medium-bodied palate is elegantly played, with a quiet intensity of savory and spice box flavors complementing the stone fruit, finishing long and lively. -
Try this Wine: Amazing Spring Whites Yangarra makes an Estate Roussanne for less than half the price of the Roux Beauté. I tasted the 2016. On first sip, it didn’t impress because it needed oxygen. With several hours of decanting, it began to reveal itself as a dynamic wine capable of putting on complexity and intrigue with more air or age. That is a clear sign of quality and precise attention to detail. The nose wafts lean aromas of sweet dandelion, mild Meyer lemon, tangerine peel and under ripe mango. It’s medium weight on the palate, with balanced and crisp acid that forms a nicely textured backbone. The flavors are just beginning to define themselves, and there is enough nuttiness already to suggest a really cool evolution over the following five-ish years, if not longer. Fresh almond, lean lemon, tart mango and pineapple, unsweetened vanilla, salty minerality and bitter greens form the basis of the flavor profile. Tasty now, it will develop complexity and a more dynamic structure as it ages.
The 2014 Roussanne has spiced apples and poached pears on the nose with wafts of honeyed apricot. Medium to full-bodied with satiny texture and plenty of freshness, the palate has nice balance and a long, yeasty finish.
The 2013 Roussanne is redolent of fresh apple slices, lemon peel and white peach with hints of straw and honeyed toast. With plenty of peach, citrus and toasty flavors on offer in the medium-bodied palate, it has a refreshing acid line and a long, silken-textured finish. Drink it now to 2017+.
Gleaning light green-gold, the variety speaks more of texture and structure than any particular flavour; a faintly flowery/blossom/nutty bouquet, then a distinctive minerally palate, although the nutty characters linger.
Fresh and citrusy and white peach and minerals; bright, long and complex with lovely balance and nerve.
Smooth and spicy, a generous mouthful of pear, floral and lychee flavors wrapped in a polished frame. Drink now.
The Yangarra Viognier was made using the same techniques as the Roussanne, but here the wine has distinguishable varietal character, fresh fruit flavors and good length. There's a brilliant medium gold color, deeply set stone fruit aromatics, excellent texture and fruit, leading to a dry finish at 13% alcohol and good length. The one factor that has kept Viognier from becoming a major player in the U.S. market is high price and this appealing wine is another example.
Delicate and pure-tasting, with violet and rose petal accents to the lively cherry and red plum flavors. Hints of cocoa powder on the spicy finish.
This bright red colored Pinot Noir from WindRacer opens with a coffee and black cherry bouquet with a hint of candied strawberry. On the palate, this wine is medium bodied, soft, balanced and has medium acidity. The flavor profile is a mild cherry with notes of gentle minerality and mild strawberry and a hint of cranberry. The finish is dry and its flavors drift away nicely. The Panel suggested pairing this Pinot with grilled red snapper or grilled pork.
In contrast to Wind Racer's Anderson Valley Pinot, the 2012 Pinot Noir Russian River shows more charcuterie, roasted herbs and rosemary jam. It is a spicy yet fresh style of Pinot Noir to drink over the next 3-4 years.
Vivid red. Vibrant red berry and floral scents are complicated by a zesty mineral quality. Clean and precise on the palate, offering fresh red currant and strawberry flavors and a touch of blood orange. Fleshes out with air and finishes with excellent clarity and spicy persistence. In an understated, elegant style, offering plenty of upfront appeal.
Lithe and spicy, with creamy accents to the apple pastry, pear tart and dried tropical fruit flavors. Long, rich finish.
Aged in French oak for more than a year (20% new), this is a full-bodied and layered wine. Strong aromas of French butter and baguette dominate the nose. The midpalate offers more brightness, revealing high-toned accents of apple blossom, lemon and mango wrapped in tart acidity before returning to the richness of crème brûlée on the close.
The outstanding 2011 Chardonnay Russian River reveals a more interesting perfume of buttered hazelnuts, honeysuckle and caramelized citrus in a style reminiscent of a French Meursault. Medium-bodied with copious fruit, good acidity and a subtle and deft use of oak, it should drink well for 2-4 years.
Lush, ripe and concentrated with smooth, creamy texture and lot of oak; rich, dense and showing spice and depth.
2019 Pacific Northwest Rosé Report The 2018 WillaKenzie Estate Rose shows off a pretty pale hue and opens with a bouquet of rose water with guava and bright cran-cherry aromatics. Showing bright acidity, the wine has a wonderful citrus astringency that connects with the red fruit flavors. Downright delicious, enjoy this over the next several years.
Good value wines for summer parties Summer’s humidity is instantly reduced with a glass of chilled 2017 Willakenzie Estate Rose Willamette Valley. This pale salmon-colored wine blends 95% pinot noir with 2% pinot blanc and 3% pinot meunier, a grape usually associated with Champagne. It adds up to a pleasant citrus and cherry-scented and flavored wine with a touch of minerality and a palate-cleansing finish.
Summer Sippers Pale copper color. Super floral on the nose with cut stems, orange blossoms, lilies, nettle, along with peaches galore. Precise acidity from start to finish, dry and tangy, minerality throughout. White cherries, juicy peaches and nectarine topped in rose hips and orange blossoms. Floral, fresh, lovely balance and depth, this is very pretty stuff. Pinot Noir with 3% Pinot Meunier and 2% Pinot Blanc.
On night number two, I took a similar but more narrow approach in choosing two wines that come from the same vineyard, but then added a white into the mix. The latter, a pinot gris, was my first introduction to WillaZenzie Estate, a winery that quickly became a revelation. All of WillaKenzie’s wines come from their own vineyards, and many of their wines are vineyard-designates. I’ll get to a number of their pinots later, but the 2017 pinot gris has a voluminously perfumed nose of grapefruit, peach, gravel, slate lime zest and marzipan. Lean on entry, it gains body as it sits in the mouth. The acid is nicely balanced, neither subdued nor overbearing. Key Lime pie, starfruit and grapefruit dominate the fruit profile, though the stony minerality really drives the length of this linear, focused wine. Impressive effort. 90 points, Value A.
Very light straw color; core apple and stone fruit aroma, hint of nectarine, pleasing, fresh, fine depth; medium bodied, crisp and lively on the palate; dry, nice acidity, well-balanced; bright tangerine with a trace of minerality; medium finish. Another solid effort from one of Oregon's most consistent and top producers of this grape variety.
Bright, creamy and delicate aromas of banana, vanilla bean, light lemon and fresh spice on the nose. Zesty and refreshing on the palate, this shines with leading notes of green apple, lemon and grapefruit notes that soften on the midpalate, leaving behind tropical fruits, sunflower and white blossom notes and a creamy texture that fade slowly.
This entry level cuvée is finished with a screw cap, and pulled from a mix of barrels and clones from across the estate. It's forward, fruity and big, like an especially bold Beaujolais. Along with primary berry fruit there are light touches of pine needle and chocolate. It's full bodied and ready to go with your winter meal's roasted fowl.