From the very good '99 California Pinot vintage, here's an affordable and elegant choice, offering pleasant black cherry and red currant flavors that are round, firming up on the finish, where the tannins show their strength.

Modest floral, plum and cherry flavors turn citrusy midpalate, their focus ebbing on the finish. Ultimately rather simple. Drink now.

Medium gold; butterscotch bouquet; lively bite; apply and honey.

Add some cream to white corn and you'll have the signature flavor of Central Coast, or more specifically, Santa Maria Valley chardonnay. The particular richness the grape takes on in this mountain-ringed coastal valley often expresses itself in that flavor, a character you'll find in the scent of the Cambria…Its modest richness and finesse creates a bridge to the Cambria, the most intensely flavored of the three (compared to Kendall-Jackson 1999 Santa Maria Valley Camelot Vineyard Chardonnay and Cinnabar 1999 Central Coast Quicksilver Chardonnay) -- and also the most tightly knit. Here's that creamed-corn pungency, along with a plump feel in the mouth. The balance of the ripeness rides an edge between dark tones and brighter orange peel and lemon peel freshness. A sip of (Sonoma- Cutrer 1998 Chardonnay) Les Pierres will make this appear sweeter, the oak showing more in vanilla sweetness, but the Cambria still comes together into a tight finish, holding its own. Not a bad Central Coast benchmark for twenty-two bucks.

Un nez classique, avec du cassis et des notes minérales qu'égayent le thym, des notes mentholées. La bouche est très médocaine: architecture stricte, bon équilibre entre chair et vivacité, finale expressive et longue. Un vin réussi dans un millésime difficile. (Classic aromas of black currant and mineral notes, with lively notes of thyme and mint. The mouthfeel is Medoc like, well structured, good balance between texture and acidity, all with a long finish. A well made wine in spite of the vintage.)

...There's a nuttiness to the aroma (that's a bit of wood age speaking) as well as a cool, ripe pear scent. Then in the mouth, it just floats along, juicy as a pear, creamy and deeply rich even thought the texture is relatively light: think of the richness of mascarpone cheese, then cut it with the cool, Pacific-tinged acidity...more mineral and breezy...more integrated, less rich but no less creamy, a comfortable and mouthwatering wine..."

...a great value for its quiet, clean chardonnay flavors sharpened and focused by oak. The fruit and wood meld into a brown butter flavor, drawing a line down the middle of the palate...

A clear departure from the refined and fruity Merlots that were once issued from Matanzas Creek Winery, this highly ripened effort goes for maximum extract and richness from the outset, and its aromas and flavors are brimming with abundant oak, very ripe fruit and a complex streak of earthy spice. Plush on the palate with a fat, fleshy feel and plenty of weight, the wine ultimately bows to ripeness and ends with undisguised alcohol heating up its ragged finish.

Dark, rich and chocolaty, with black cherry and blackberry fruit that's deep and concentrated. Gains complexity with mineral, cedar, coffee and tarry notes, turning dry and tanic. Best from 2002 through 2010.

Spicy cherry, red currant and herbal flavors have a hint of candy, with tart tannins on the finish. Drink now through 2003.

Concentrated and powerful, this is anything but your average California chardonnay. In fact, it's a bit unorthordox, Burgundian in the sense of its orientation toward terroir expression rather than fruitness or oak. Yes the wood shows in scents of walnuts and exotic spice. And the fruit turns up the power with flavors of mandarin orange, accents of primose and other floral notes. Yet the core of the wine seems to come from a melding of these elements, from a combination that plays as distinctly Santa Maria. There's a fine line of acidity to keep all the fruit toned and lifted, a balance that would carry its flavors with buttery escargot or grilled salmon.

Filled with the simple flavors of sun-drenched green grapes, this is a straight-on white, its pointed acidity keeping the flavors along a clean line. Easy as an aperitif or with light fish.

Sharply focused, rich and complex, this is an impressive Chardonnay, with pretty pear, fig, melon and apricot flavors. Turns spicy, with anise and cedar, and finishes with a long and lively aftertaste. Drink now through 2005. 12,298 cases made.

A consistently outstanding Chardonnay, this complex pear-and fig-flavored white earns its fifth Spectator Selection honor since the inaugural 1990 vintage.

Maintains a sense of elegance and finesse, even with its rich, creamy core of earth, pear, fig, citrus, hazelnut and nectarine flavors. Long and complex on the finish.

Offers a floral bouquet, with rich, spicy apple, pear, fig and melon flavors, turning elegant and refined, finishing with touches of hazelnut and toasty oak.

Rich, with creamy fig, vanilla, pear, hazelnut and spice notes that are long and tasty. A delicious mouthful of Chardonnay. Drink now through 2005.

Wonderful purity of fruit. Ripe, rich and creamy, with layers of fig, citrus, tart pineapple, tangerine and melon, finishing with an elegant touch of toasty oak. Drink now through 2004. 85,000 cases made.

Fragrant, with floral and fruity aromas. Rich, with citrus, fig, melon and spice nuances, finishing with a crisp, clean aftertaste. Drink now through 2005.

Elegant and polished, with understated apple, melon and light hazelnut flavors that build to depth and complexity.

Intense, with cherry, currant, herbal and raspberry flavors underscored by toasty oak and lively structure. Drink now through 2004.

Ripe and juicy, with layers of peach, pear, citrus, butter and light coconut-toasty oak flavors.

It was simple...easy to drink and pleasant. We thought that a bottle of this wine, put in a big tub of ice by the pool, would be lovely on a hot day and we wrote: 'Everyone would like this.' We were certainly right about that: It was Kendall-Jackson 1999...

High in bracing acidity, with flavors of green grapes and stone.