Does just what VR does across all varieties, offering up a ripe, varietally true Zin that's all about upfront fruit and spice. Finishes with a scour of dusty tannins.

Consistently one of the best proprietary blends of northern California, Cardianle's 2004 is 100% Napa fruit (from Mt. Veeder, Howell Mountain, Stags Leap District, and Oakville). This blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Merlot boasts a dense purple color in addition to sweet aromas of kirsch, black currants, licorice, olives, and spice box. Fabulous texture, full-bodied power, pure fruit, and an opulent, voluptuous finish nearly conceal significant tannin. This beauty should drink well young, yet age easily for 15 more years. Not yet released. Previously recommended: 2003 Proprietary Red Wine (95).

Peppery, earthy, saddle leather nose with cardamom, blackberry and cassis with smoky, coffee, vanilla streaks. Rich, supple and concentrated palate with spicy, peppery, coffee, cassis jam flavours and lively sweet blackberry fruit flecked with cedar and tobacco. Fine-grained tight tannins on the long finish.

2004 VERITE LA MUSE The inky/ruby/plum/purple-tinged 2004 La Muse, primarily Merlot with a bit of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon from Bennett Valley, Alexander Valley, and Knight's Valley, is meant to be a Pomerol-styled effort. Notions of Mocha, sweet espresso roast, plum, anise, and black cherries jump from the glass of this aromatic 2004. Abundant spice, subtle notes of French oak, and a full-bodied, fleshy personality result in an enjoyable as well as accessible wine to drink over the next 12-15+ years.

2004 VERITE LA JOIE The 2004 La Joie, which is sourced from the same areas as La Muse, is usually composed of 70% or more Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc. This pauillac-like effort is more tannic, structured, and masculine, offering hints of forest floor intermixed with smoke, seaweed, black currants, scorched earth, graphite, chocolate, and coffee. Powerful, big, and back-strapping, it is atypical for a 2004 given its structure and brooding character. Cellar it for 2-4 years and consume it over the following 15 or more.

2003 NINE BARREL PINOT NOIR (RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY) With crisp tartness and beautifully ripened fruit, this Pinot Noir shows it's cool-climate terroir. Floods the mouth with tiers of cherry, cola, root been, licorice, spices and toasty oak, leading to a long, rich and fine finish. It's a bit immature now, although it'll wash down a great steak, but probably better 2007-2010. - S.H.

A rich, sumptuous perfume of blueberries, mountain flowers, and briery fruit is followed by perfume a focused, glycerin as well as fruit-filled Zinfandel that should drink well for 5-6 years.

Strapping black tannins hide this wine, needing a day of air before they begin to relent. Black fruit comes out from under their grip, sweet and ripe enough to balance the mineral savor. Hard edged for now, this should prove itself with eight or ten years of age, suited, eventually, to roast lamb.

Grown at the Jackson family's Alexander Mountain estate, this wine leads with tannin and ends with more savory tannin. In between, there's plenty of wild cherry and fresh black currant flavor to cut through the dense blackness. A sophisticated, foresty cabernet with the structure to evolve for a decade, this could be made accessible sooner by pairing it with a grilled T-bone.

A huge red, this big, black cabernet is full and complete all the way through. It tastes like a rich man's wine, solidly built, significant in structure and chocolate-warm.

2005 ZINFANDEL FANUCCHI WOOD ROAD VINEYARD Hartford Court's 2005 Zinfandels are considerably lighter than previous vintages. It was a cool year and I suspect Zinfandel never received the heat it needs to achieve full power. The 2005 Zinfandel Fanucchi-Wood Road Vineyard offers elegant blueberry and raspberry aromas interwoven with hints of pepper and spice. Although medium-bodied, with more intensity, richness, and length than the Hartford Vineyard Zin, it does not possess as much power and richness as the 2004 or 2003....

Exhibits abundant amounts of briery blueberry fruit along with hints of oak, kirsch, and spice box. Enjoy this big, savory, juicy Zin over the next 2-3 years.

A structured as well as elegant effort revealing notes of roasted herbs, meat, berry fruit, and a hint of tar.

Sweet, spicy notes of cinnamon, black cherry jam, cold steel, and crushed rocks jump from the glass of the medium ruby-colored 2004 Pinot Noir Sevens Bench Vineyard. Riper than some of its siblings, with sweeter cherry fruit as well as abundant spice, it should be consumed over the next 3-4 years.

Mildly minty and kissed with wisps of dried herbs in its otherwise creamy, cherry-like nose, this well-ripened wine is both full in body and slightly soft on the palate. It is firmed up by a welcome bit of last-minute tannin, but it dries just enough to be noticeable and its prospects for improvement with age are fairly modest.

2005 CHARDONNAY STONE COTE Limited in availability, the 990-case cuvee of 2005 Chardonnay Stone Cote (essentially a single vineyard parcel within the Durell Vineyard) is a mineral-dominated effort revealing notions of limes, lemons, tangerine oil, and flint. Full-bodied with Burgundian-like leesiness, it is a rich Chardonnay to consume over the next 5-6 years. This is one of my favorite wineries for Burgundian-styled Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs as well as full-throttle Zinfandels (although the 2005s are lighter than usual). Don Hartford and Jess Jackson have incredible access to some fabulous vineyards.

2004 CHARDONNAY RESERVE SPECIALE Arrowood's top Chardonnay, the 2004 Reserve Speciale, is a 357-case offering that represents a selection from three separate vineyards, and receives the same treatment as the Alary vineyards cuvee. Copious quantities of orange blossom, pineapple, and other tropical fruits are accompanied by good definition, refreshing acidity, and a full-bodied, concentrated mouthfeel.

2005 HARTFORD COURT CHARDONNAY FOUR HEARTS A new offering, the 2005 Chardonnay Four Hearts is a 11,000-case cuvee of stunning Chardonnay. Beautiful aromas of honeysuckle, peach blossoms, poached pears, and subtle wood are present in this well-made, elegant crisp, aromatically expressive white. Medium to full-bodied, long, and pure, it should provide plenty of pleasure over the next 3-4 years. This is one of my favorite wineries for Burgundian-styled Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs as well as full-throttle Zinfandels (although the 2005s are lighter than usual). Don Hartford and Jess Jackson have incredible access to some fabulous vineyards.

2005 CHARDONNAY SONOMA 2005 Chardonnay is a 23,500 case wine that enjoyed 95% malolactic fermentation as well as eight months in French oak (only 325 new). Smoke, lemon oil, white currant, white peach, hazelnut, and orange rind aromas jump from the glass of this 2005. It displays terrific fruit and purity, but little evidence of wood.

2004 PINOT NOIR LOS CARNEROS The medium ruby-colored 2004 Pinot Noir Los Carneros (3,500 cases) shows more forest floor, spicy cherry, cinnamon, and Allspice aromas and flavors. It appears to be the most complex of the trio.

88 POINTS 2004 HARTFORD COURT PINOT NOIR SEASCAPE A Cote de Beaune-like offering, the 2004 Pinot Noir Seascape, offers classic notes of pomegranate, sweet and sour cherries, raspberries, root beer, and spice. It's a wine of finesse and elegance rather than power and intensity. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. This is one of my favorite wineries for Burgundian-styled Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs as well as full throttle Zinfandels (although the 2005s are lighter than usual). Don Hartford and Jess Jackson have incredible access to some fabulous vineyards.

88 POINTS 2004 HARTFORD COURT PINOT NOIR HAILEY'S BLOCK The Pinot Noirs include the cold climate 2004 Pinot Noir Hailey's Block from the Green Valley. Made from younger vines from the Arrendell Vineyard, it exhibits a medium ruby color, scents of Allspice, mulberries, sweet and sour cherries, and tart acidity. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. This is one of my favorite vineries for the Burgundian-sytled Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs as well as full-throttle Zinfandels (although the 2005s are lighter than usual). Don Hartford and Jess Jackson have incredible access to some fabulous vineyards.

2004 PINOT NOIR ANDERSON VALLEY

2005 CHARDONNAY RED POINT ALEXANDER VALLEY reveals plenty of honeyed melons, crushed rocks, white currants, and white peaches. This fresh, lively Chardonnay is more similar to a Chablis than most California Chardonnays. It should drink well for 3-4 years.

89 La Crema 2004 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Shows lots of polish in the ripe tropical fruit and green apple flavors that have a baked, buttery pie crust edge. Brisk cool-climate acidity perks up these rich flavors and makes the wine clean and balanced. -- S.H.